Very detailed work Nathan, you are doing a very professional job! "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing it right. If it ain't worth doing, don't do it." You , sir, are doing it right!
Thank you Agree 100% and part of the reason it's taking me so long to start this( over 15 years). This has snowballed for sure but I knew deep down as soon as the body came off I couldn't stop. If it needs something now is the time to do it. I will have to schedule the body work /paint for another time though....hopefully next fall.
My tank straps are like new with no rust and this one has the ink stamp, I'm guessing from the steel supplier. I did paint straps like I did the tank but I didn't paint over this name.
The tank had some surface rust in a couple spots but was like new overall. It too has a ink stamp from uss the steel supplier. It's location is at the top and not seen when installed.
The rear crossmember/body mount after cleaning and acid washing. Just showing more in process pictures. I also stripped the out of this,the tail panel and trunk drops/quarter extensions.
Preparing for new floor. I sprayed with 3m weld thru then only the inside after weld thru dried with semi gloss.
The where and how the welding of the rear of the floor was done. Plug welding across bottom lip of the rear crossmember and a gagillion or gazillion spots across the top lip butt welding the old and new panels together. I would get about inch or so several inches apart welded then grind those down and repeat until it was fully welded all the way across.
Switch gears and swap ends. The new dash insulation came in,the old had fallen apart and if different than used on the firewall. The firewall insulation is perfect so I'm leaving it. I've clean the hvac box and recirculation assembly and ring and replaced heater core. Old core wasn't leaking but we know what a pain to change later if it does so know is the time. I used mild soap and water and tooth brush to clean these parts, no kind of paints/clear was used or tire shines on the rubber parts.
I finally found a use for the clips that come on some paint cans to help keep lid on before purchasing. I used them to hold the fiberglass heater box and the heater core plate together between the studs and bolt and screw location. It may be unnecessary once box is installed but on the bench there were gaps. Also before installing heater core plate I applied permatex high tac #80062 to the box flange. Some type of sealer was brushed on there originally just don't know what they used. The little paint can clips also insure the plate is pushed into the high tac before instalation into car.
Another bit of info on hardware that some are aware of, others may not. The original 3 finger clamps had long square ended fingers(the 2 on the hose) and the later replacements have shorter rounded end fingers. You could grind the tips of the later clamps to square the ends to look like the originals but they will be shorter than original. I am restoring the originals I have and using those in more visible locations and the rounded without grinding in the other locations.
