My '72 Skylark Pro Street Build

Discussion in 'Race car chassis tech' started by NotMyPants, Sep 6, 2014.

  1. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    Hey guys just thought I would share the start of my build. Seems like tubbed Skylarks are as rare as a rainbow so I decided im going to build one. I know once you get into this caliber of build/car its not for everybody. Im 26 and doing the back half by myself. This will be my first backhalf so any input is great. My car is a rust free Flint built 72 Skylark. I am doing a frame off restoration with it so with the frame out its perfect timing. I choose a ladder bar back half kit from S&W Race Cars.

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    My baby.

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    Frame after I stripped it and shot it in etch.

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    Most of the front done but still some pieces left.

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    Semi gloss black.

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    Rear right before cutting.

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    Cutting out the middle so I can mock up the S&W.

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    Mocking up. Not in right place yet but getting a idea where I need to grind and trim.

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    Another angle.

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    Frame fully welded in after a lot of hours of measuring, grinding and cutting.

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    I changed the layout a little bit in the rear compared to what S&W had called for.

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    Frame ends welded up.

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    Hope its level...

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    DP90 shot.

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    Still need to top coat semi gloss but right now that's where she sits.
     
  2. ss4825

    ss4825 Well-Known Member

    That is looking great.
     
  3. bigblockbuick70

    bigblockbuick70 Gold Level Contributor

    This will be an interesting thread to follow. Keep up the good work!
    And compliments to a very nice and clean shop, looks very professional. :TU:
     
  4. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    looks really good, id maybe go ahead and box the rails in also some 1in punched plate would work and look nice, then a bar off the ladder xmember over to the side rail
     
  5. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    Thank you!

    Thanks!

    Ok. Box the whole length of the frame rail?
     
  6. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    I would, thats just me tho , if you ever get the itch to go to a more powerful engine or maybe you do already, the stiffer the better everything works, nows the time
     
  7. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    Ok. What about the last little bit of the rear? I still need to get in there for the bumper bracket bolts but I do have some play room.
     
  8. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Nah no need back there ,just wanna make the torque box as strong as possible, from ladder xmember to the front there behind the tire
     
  9. Steve Reynolds

    Steve Reynolds SRE Inc

    Looking GOOD! Brings back memories of building my X. I also used S&W components. I went with 36" ladder bars. Makes for great launches!

    Keep up the good work. Perhaps we could share pics for comparison. Mine was started in 2003 and completed in 2009. Mine is strictly a race car but it will share many components, etc.

    P.S. Definitely box the main frame rails!


    Steve
     
  10. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    Hi Steve. I would love to see pics of yours! Post them up you wont hijack my thread. Im definitely going to box the frame now.
     
  11. Steve Reynolds

    Steve Reynolds SRE Inc

    Here's just a couple.
    The last one is quite a bit farther along than you currently are, but I figured a little motivation can never hurt!!

    Are you putting in a full cage?

    Steve
     

    Attached Files:

  12. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    That's awesome! What size rear slicks are those? Im planning on a 10 point cage. How hard is it to install one? Id love to do it myself if I can. Can you still run inner fenders with the cage mounting to the front frame like that? I want to build this car as mean as I can but still keeping it as stock looking as I can. Kind of a mix between vintage super stock and early pro street. A lot of pro street cars ive seen are so moded in and out its hard to tell there was an original car inside.
     
  13. Steve Reynolds

    Steve Reynolds SRE Inc

    The slicks are 14" wide. Can't remember the actual size right off hand.

    A 10 point cage should be good. If your main objective is to drive it on the street, be sure to make it "person friendly". Use swing out or detachable bars where you can. My last street car had a fully welded cage and it was a chore getting in and out and don't even think about passengers in the rear seat! Detachable bars are great in case you race but on the street you really don't need everything fully welded in place.

    I don't run inner fenders in the race car, but if you did them correctly I guess it's possible. If I were to run inner front fenders (for a street version) I would fab some up out of .060 aluminum and make them removable with Dzus fasteners. Almost everything on my car has Dzus fasteners and is removable;
    Bumpers, Hood, Deck Lid, Trans Tunnel, Entire Front Clip, etc., etc. Most of that though, would not necessarily be needed on a street car. I guess it depends on what look you're going for. As you mentioned you want it more "stock" looking only Tubbed/Old Pro Stock look. That's cool. That's what I would do.... that or the complete opposite like perhaps a Pro Modified look!


    I'm interested in watching your progress. Any questions that I can be of any help with just let me know!!

    Steve
     
  14. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    Cool thanks for the info! Ill be updating this as I go and plan to often. Im sure ill have more questions.
     
  15. carmantx

    carmantx Never Surrender

    Looking good. I would love to do that to one of mine.
     
  16. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    Thanks!
     
  17. Staged 1

    Staged 1 Buick 455 under pressure

    Very cool. I too would like to do this. It's hard to cut up a rust free car but who wants a rusty pro-street car? Some day I will close my eyes and start chopping away:moonu: Keep the pics coming :TU:
     
  18. Steve Reynolds

    Steve Reynolds SRE Inc

    That's the way I felt when I cut mine up. It started as a TOTALLY rust free California shell that I bought from Tom Rix. It was hard to start cutting but I kept saying "anyone can restore a nice car, but it takes a real man to cut one up"! :TU:
     
  19. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    That's how I rationalize it
     
  20. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    I agree , no sense in having to use a rust bucket to.build a car, whats the plan for the sheet metal,? Expanding factory tubs, or goin with universal tubs?
     

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