Holy Smokes! Ive been perving on this since the mods are playing games with me logging in, so in the wee hours, I hafta log in while the logging is good! ws 1) VERY POOR construction technique to face screw from your fascia board into the end grain of the joists. Thats about 75% weaker and will rot around the screws . A 2x4 gusset on each side of the end of the joist (inside corners) and screw into the BACK side of the fascia and side of the joists and BAMM. Done. 2) In the pic with the red saw; That 4x4 should be overhung by 1-1/2 inches by the joist. The next step ( on the front edge) would be a doubled 2x8 supporting the joists, screwed into the sides of the 4x4 and tying the center and the 2 ends all together. Level as necessary. I wouldve continued with that method every 4 feet or so with a single full width 2x8 up to the door. Even cheating with concrete deck post supports can work. 4x4s into the dirt are goin to sink eventually. You need WAY more support that what youre proposing, especially with 20 drunks dancing to Achy Breaky Heart, ESPECIALLY with TREX. 3) Did you buy a Japanese pull saw yet? Take a 1/2 or 5/8" wood chisel and bust all that crap from under the post against the brick. Take a piece of TREX on the deck for a gage and trim the bottom of that post with the pull saw. Use the saw/chisel up to each screw/nail and trim those accordingly. DO NOT try to cut them with a wood saw or chisel. Each post is going to take 5 minutes to cut. The TREX will slip under and look professional. Freshen the stain before final TREX install. 4) Use non corrosive deck screws. The TAN ones at Retards. I use #10's by what ever length you need with a #3 phillips head. FORGET the posi drive junk. When you need to lift a board or what ever, youll never be able to find that one lousy bit. 5) Id snap a chalk line and drill all the holes in a nice straight line. The TREX holes should be countersunk for a nice flush finish. In the wood, draw them down flush only. The wood will swell over the screw heads and youll make a mess if you ever need to pull one out. Regular screws (as youve shown!) will leave rust streaks and eventually (after 5 years + or -) will rust away and break, especially in treated lumber; its acidic. 6) Fill those fascia holes (and all the handrails etc) with a dab of caulk with a putty knife or bondo spreader before staining. You want to keep the water OUT and prevent it from getting under the finish and lifting it. Ive probably built 20 decks out of nice stuff like cedar and USA grown long leaf pine, however I sure one of the butchers here will have a better way. I NEVER hesitate to call a building inspector for approval especially if I have a permit. Did you get/need one? ws
That was how they did it. I've got joist hangers with the lag screws for added insurance. The 2x10 joist and the front 2x10 band both sit on the 4x4 that is 2 feet in the dirt with concrete in the hole. I didn't buy one. I'm staining everything exposed, including the tops of the joists, band and ledger. I am using external grade CAMO brand screws and lag screws on everything. I like the torx bit. It bites better than a phillips and doesn't strip easily. I have tons of the bits. I'm putting Trex down with the hidden fastener system. No exposed screws anywhere but the steps. Those are specific for composite as well. This isn't a new construction so no permit.
I dug out my pocket jig and made some 4x4 supports to go under the post. I'm also going to add an angle bracket and some lag screws. It should be more stable than what I took out. I'm going to use my floor jack to cinch them in tight and screw them together.
Good Lord... an educated response without a link to R/A for screws! There is hope for humanity afterall! I thank you for that! Generally, the front runner (or 1st joist) would be doubled sandwiching that 4x4. Actually I wouldve added TWO in between the corner columns. That would also incorporate an extra mounting point for the stair stringers. Sometimes, more is better. I also wouldve added a few more 4x4s with a slab side mount for the joists. That deck should hold a 300 lbs. per sq. ft. rating. I used TREX as a decking on the floor of my flybridge on the yacht, but its beginning to fade (it was a redwood color), and anything hot (barbeque fork?) will melt it and any kind of solvent will make a modeling cement project out of it. Just some food for thought. I still shy away from torx screws. Drywall screws are a #2 and that bit will round out a #3 deck screw with a few turns. The #3s will also accept a #2 Freerson drive (square drive) bit. Whichever ones you chose, buy a 10 pack so you can find them if/when need be LOL. Id also suggest a small box and bits for a #3; just to see the difference, honest! I have deck hardware on the boat that takes a #4 and #5 Reed and Prince. Those look like phillips but are a 45* point with a square "X" profile. Those I have to run by hand, but are machine screws; cleaned and chased with a tap of course! Dont be afraid to use clamps like the bumper jack. Sometimes wood wont pull together like youd think. The Pocket Jig is cool, but dont pull the screws in so far that they're not retrievable, or just split the wood. If they arent visible maybe use a #10 stainless flat washer under the heads? More clamping force is always better! Always PRE-DRILL. If youre still gonna butt joint those ends, use some Loctite construction adhesive on the faces. Thants strong stuff and will also seal the ends from soaking up water. This aint the gospel according to the Buick Brothers, just another few methods Ive used, as Im sure youve discovered a few other methods on disassembly, probably just a bit less correct. ws
Finished blocking the middle and added the post supports. Started painting the trellis I will install around the base to keep critters out. Blocking really firmed it up nicely. One of the middle joists is a bit proud above the rest. Not sure if it will be a problem or not. I jacked up the ones on either side and bounced on it without a solution. Here's what I arrived at in the corners. It seems pretty solid. I can always redo it if it doesn't seem sturdy enough. I can anchor it to the brick as a last resort.
OK, no real progress lately. Too cold to paint outdoors, Trex isn't available and lumber is expensive. Has anyone built a deck surface with 2x6 treated lumber? It is actually a fair bit cheaper than regular 5/4 deck boards. #2 2x6 boards with a radiused edge are $15.18 per 16' board and regular deck boards are $20.98. That would save me at least $200 on the deck AND make for one solid deck. I wouldn't park car on it but it would hold anything I could carry up there.
Yeah Max... Chinaman makee fun fun with yankee... all deck no happy while apart and now plastic wood no longer grows... I had to get that off my chest! Go with the 2x6s' (1-1/2" x 5-1/2") ... Who's gonna worry; you or the judges. Itll have an industrial look and feel, but, you may want to consider tossing in a few extra sandwiched stringers with 4x4 posts. Youll also need to be sure your buying "clear" lumber; #2 or better so theres almost no knots in it. If you buy it now get it down ASAP. Itll freeze hard as a rock and youll have a ton of spaghetti on your hands when it dries. Id trim 1/4" off the ends if you can spare that much. Mill cut (rough ends) are water sucker uppers. All 4 edges radiused? With that much lumber youll need to flip every other board upside down to offset the cupping action. I'd run 3 screws on each joist. You may also need to clamp each one down to shoot screws. CONS: 2x as heavy, longer screws, and a common compound miter saw may not make it through, like maybe by 1/2". Compound radial arm saw will make it. Id still run #3 Phillips head screws with a 110 volt drill LOL... LEAN INTO IT PAL!!
My miter saw can cut almost all the way through a 2x10 so a 2x6 isn't going to give it any pause. Yes, all 4 long edges of the 2x6 are rounded and it is listed as #2 grade. We have some really nice weather coming up this week and I've got the truck and trailer ready to go tomorrow morning. If I don't get it stained and down this week, I'm going to store it in my heated garage. I've got a 20V B+D cordless impact driver that put those 4.5" lag screws in like a hot knife in butter. Two extra batteries on the charger and a separate drill with the proper bit chucked up but it doesn't look like most people predrill bigger stock or even deck boards.
My general rule about pre drilling is only when it's within 4" of the end. Or sometimes if it's a spot that I feel will split, I'll pre drill. Keith
If you use 4" x #10 or 12 #3 phillips head deck screws you shouldnt need to pre-drill. If you were using an old 9V drill, then I would; for the drills' sake LOL. Make the heads just a 1/64 below the face. If you sink them theyll never come out without busting the face of the board. They will hold the stain just fine. This fall I just went over my front porch with a dab of caulk on each screw. The PO drove them in 1/8" and each one holds water. NFG. Fresh stain this spring IF it gets here haha. If you use one of those bow clamps, thats great. Just remember if youre pulling back against a spacer, you'll need something to drive it out! I just use my miter saw with the blade backwards on 2-4 vinyl siding and it makes about 95%. Use a square to square up the blade! Dont trust the gage on the saw! So are the boards 240 inches for a 240 inch frame or is there any to spare? As above, trim the ends clean if you can! Now you can get rid of all the junk UNDER the posts on the brick too! That was an OK idea you had, but wouldve looked a little hoakie at the end of the job! Just another ongoing job for my docks below...
LOL... the jokes on the mod that reduced my band-width... you caused me to double post pics which used MORE of YOURS! ws
OK, finally got some wood and started ZIP taping the tops of all the joists, band and ledger boards. I've discovered the 2x6x16' is slightly narrower than the 2x6x8' boards. What madness is this? The tags are actually wrong, they state the opposite. Not just one but several so far. On top of that, the ZIP tape was just thick enough to cause me issues trying to get the boards under the brick ledge for the doors. I also swapped out the bowed up 2x10 joist for a new one that is much more to my liking.
So, I was all set to use the Camo (brand) edge fastening system with the hidden screws for a very clean finished look. Has anyone used that? Here's the tool on Lowe's website. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CAMO-Marksman-Pro-X1/4557956 Several people in the reviews, both at Lowe's and Amazon, are reporting the heads shear off when the temps change. Looks like I'm probably better off using the tried and true face screws. My deck board bending tool is on the way. It was a knock-off on Amazon for $40. We will see if it works or not.
I just did a deck with the Camo system- I really liked it. Haven't had anything snap yet. It only comes with 2 bits, and the very tip did break off of one early on (went thru 90% of a 1750-count box). Box store doesn't sell the special bits separately - go easy or find a few spares online. The screws drive pretty easy, and when you bottom out on the tool, stop. Saw plenty of the board width variations on mine, too.
You did the edge screwed with camo or face-attached with camo screws? I'm a little afraid my thicker 2x6 boards will be harder on the screw heads and shear them this winter or summer.
Edge-screwed w/ Camo tool. 5/4x6 deckboards. Are the Camo screws long enough for 2x ? I would think a 2x would warp LESS than a 5/4. If you face-screw with the Camo screws- you have to pre-drill because they're not, actually, pointed.
OK, I went with stainless steel 3" torx-head deck screws. I got a few boards down. The hardest one under the posts and the door ledges. I had to scuff them pretty good with a belt sander where they wouldn't slide under the brick door ledges. It might turn out OK after all.
So, I put a few more boards down. A couple of those stainless screws broke off before getting flush. I hope that is not a trend. Based on the stains on the joists, these boards a 1/8" narrower. It might take one more board than I had originally counted. I'm installing them fairly close as I understand anything over 1/8" will grow as they age and shrink.
