Hello ! I'm also new to this forum, and, like Mike, I have recently purchased a 455 to put into my 65 Skylark HT. My engine is a '75, out of an Electra. I'm going to rebuild it, but I need some tips and advice from those who have been there and done that. I'm leaning toward a "street/strip" rebuild, with more emphasis on the "street" than the "strip". I'm shooting for the 500-650 hp range. First, I'm considering the purchase of a set of 72 or earlier heads. Is this a direct bolt-on swap, or are modifications necessary ? Second, I know I'm going to need an aftermarket intake manifold and carburetor. Which would you recommend ? Are T.B.I. or other fuel injection systems available ? Last (for now, anyway) when I do my initial engine teardown, if I find that the bottom end assembly (crank, rods, pistons, etc.) are in good shape, should I leave it together, or do a complete teardown and purchase new parts ? Thanks, Mark J
Mark- Answering your questions with a single post would be pointless. I recommend you do a search on this site under '455 build up' or '455 rebuild' or something similar. You'll get more matches than you can read in one sitting. The Buick 455 is no more difficult to build than any other IC engine, but it is distinctly different from other GM designs. I suggest doing the search, then posting more specific questions, and then once you have all the info you need, find a good machine shop in your area that knows a Buick engine has closer tolerances than a Chevy and will do good, quality work for you the first time. After that, your build-up should be easy. i must warn you though- a Buick engine is more expensive to build than a more popular engine like a Chevy. But you'll like the Buick more.:TU: Please don't think I'm shrugging you off- the search will really be the easiest way.
Mark, Welcome to the Board. Like Chris said, Don't be in a rush to get it done. Do a lot of research and then do some more.Learn all you can and don't be afraid to ask questions that's how you learn. Everybody here has good valuble information from experience,it all depends on the combination,hopefully you'll learn from others mistakes and will save yourself a lot of time and money.When you have a good Idea of what it takes to make the kind of power you want,then you can open up your wallet and start your rebuild. Good Luck to ya:Smarty: P.S. What part of the country are you in?
Send the crank out to have it checked. Get it magnafluxed and have it checked for spec. It will probably need cutting. If the crank needs cutting, get it cut 10/10 (that's .010" off the rods and .010" off the mains). The reason is this: You want between 1.5 and 2 thousandths of an inch tolerance on both the rod and main journals. No more. Having it cut will provide you with the exact tolerance you want. Be sure to tell the shop you want between 1.5 and 2 thousandths" tolerance. As for heads... Were you planning on converting the valves to Stage1? If so, the $$$ you'd spend retrofitting stock heads with S1 valves would just about equal what TA charges for a set of already done S1 heads. Here's a tip: For your HP goals you'll need port work. The more port work you have done the more HP you'll get. PAE,Gessler's, TA or TriShield can all port your heads and are recommended.
Spend the money on the new TA aluminum heads, 950 HP, x-pipe. TA spec cam , pistons ,rods , bearing intake etc. , shorty headers and you might make the hp you suggest. Otherwise based on what others report probably not. With that hp TA and Dr Weise may say a girdle is a must. Be careful with the tolerances or it may go boom during break in.
:bglasses: Mark, i have to say 5-600 HP is pretty hot for a street car, i have about 540 or so in my race car, it runs hi 10's with a hudraulic cam, cast stg-1 heads-worked over of course, custom cam, stock rods, forged slugs, and a MSD ignition system, 850 holly, x-pipe, with race muffs, and no block girdle, and weighs 3425lbs with me driving. this all cost some money, but is a great start if you want to keep things affordable. What you will need to do ...and this is very important, work on the SUSPENSION FIRST!!! bUICK 455'S MAKE INCREDIBLE TORQUE, and if you want all your money spent on the engine to work....EI; put the power to the pavement, you have some big issues there, because money spent is money wasted on a tire spinning car that wont hook and book!.. All the advise given is a great, there are some awsome parts for big HP motors, ,,,,,,,,plan the whole package..! Springs, shocks, rear end----and gearing, and a torque converter that wont balloon with all that power-(been there done that), pinion angle, adjustable upper controll arms, lower too, and sway bars....there are many types. Have a good performace shop build your tranny, that will add power to the road too. And remember quality parts, quality shop work, and most important, quality assembly. Good luck and have a blast!!!! Dave Dechent :grin: :TU:
