My car currently has a big ol' clunky Accel Super Coil bolted to the inner fender. It has been there since I bought the car almost nine years ago. I'm looking to replace it with something that will fit in the stock bracket in the stock location. The car is the one in my signature ('72 Stage 1 455, 4-speed replica). I'm pretty sure there is a ballast resistor on the firewall. I'm wondering if it need a 0.6 ohm coil of a 1.5. Also, I'm looking for advice regarding brand and any experience you may have. I'm probably going to go with Delco spark plug wires and route them using the stock pedestal looms (unless you have other suggestions. The car has a CD ignition. Attached are a couple of pics to help explain what I'm talking about. You can see the ballast resistor on the firewall by the ignition boxes near the wiring conduit. Thank you in advance for your help.
Hi, Brad. Your engine compartment looks great IMO. I have been using that same coil on my GS for 30 years. I mounted it on my engine, using a handy threaded hole in the driver's side head that is probably where a power steering pump bracket would go if my car had PS. I recently decided the same as you: Go back to a coil that is smaller and will fit in the OEM position. I had a Mallory OEM-size coil laying around that looks cool, so that is what I am using right now, along with an Accel Points Eliminator kit. My understanding is that if you're not using points, you don't need the ballast resistor, so I have removed the resistor that was mounted to my firewall. There are lots of aftermarket coils out there, of differing price ranges, and I don't much about any of them, but maybe someone else here has experience and can tell you what's good and what's not. Good luck! jeff
You're welcome. It's nice to see that the stereotype about Canadians being polite is true! One of my sons recently returned from 2 years in the Calgary area and he really liked it over there. One thought: if you are using a CDI control box, you might want your coil to be one that's optimized for CDI systems, like this one: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/40150/10002/-1 although it's not the nice cylindrical shape that will fit into your stock bracket.
You both say you have a ballast resistor on the firewall? Buick used a resistor wire in the wiring harness. I would double check your voltage at the coil/distributor. Look at your factory wiring diagram. It appears someone has modified the ignition wiring since it must be working well? Also, 12v at the distributor depends on the point eliminator brand you are using - always check the manufactures directions.
Thanks, Bill. Yes, when I bought my '69 in 1977-78, it had already been "modified" in places, including the wiring harness, and the inline resistor had been cut out I assume. There was a big ceramic resistor bolted to the firewall, and wired to be part of the ignition system. I recently pulled it and installed a repro harness, so I removed the resistor. Incidentally, I also switched to a pointless ignition, so I guess I don't even need the built-in resistor that's in my new repro harness. (The harness was not the only thing that had been modified by the previous owner--they had pulled the 400 and put in a 430 that had been blueprinted and internally balanced, fitted with adjustable pushrods and titanium valve retainers, Hooker headers, a B4B with 650 Holley, and other assorted interesting parts. Instead of the GS hood, they'd put a stock Skylark hood on it. They'd removed the carpet and replaced it with orange shag living room carpet. Oh, and they'd put a plastic hand that is flipping the bird in the empty accessory compartment.)
depends on what points conversion you are running as to the proper coil and resistance. I am running the Lectric Limited points eliminator ignition, they do NOT want you using a high performance coil so I went with a Pertronics coil. Its oil filled and proper internal resistance. check the specs on your ignition module.
If he is running a CD Box like an MSD, there is no need for any ballast resistor even if you are using points to trigger the box. The box gets it's power directly from the battery, and the original wire to the + side of the coil is used to simply turn the box on and off. The - coil connection wire from the distributor triggers the box, which takes very little current, so the points last forever. The coil is supplied with 2 leads directly from the box. The proper coil needed depends on the CD Box being used. Just look in the directions for the CD box being used. They will tell you the types of coils compatible with the box. (secondary resistance specs)
Yep. but hey, it was the 70s, when you did stuff like that. Also, crushed velvet on the seats and on the rear window speaker board were pretty much required by the Cool Car guys. And slotted mags, Gabriel Hi-jackers (still on my car BTW), and glass packs for mufflers (also still on my car). Cal Custom made lots of money off us back in those days.
Hi guys, I'm back. Yes, life was getting in the way of me being part of this. It's an old Mallory ignition box and there is a separate MSD rev limiter. This is a system that came on the car when I bought it almost nine years ago and who knows how long its been there. I have attached a photo. On the lower right part of the photo, you will be able to make out the ballast resistor on the firewall. I should have (but haven't yet) recorded the number on the Accel Super Coil to find out what it's specs are. That's next. Here's the photo of the ignition boxes:
I did, Larry. I just don't have the instructions for the ignition box. From what I read there, I shouldn't really need to worry about what coil I get because of the presence of the ignition box, correct?
Yes, from what I have read in the typical Mallory instructions, they recommend 2 Mallory coils, but state that the box is compatible with most stock coils. Here are Hyfire 6 instructions, https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/600/650/650-6852M.pdf Still unsure why you need a ballast resistor unless you have a current trigger tachometer. If the ballast resistor is in the turn on lead for the box, it is unnecessary and has nothing to do with the coil.
