Figured this would be the best place to put since I'm trying to build a protouring Skylark. It's a 65 Skylark sedan. Stock front spindles and stock rear axles. Need longer ARP wheels studs because I have to run adapters to fit my wheels over the c5 brakes. I checked on summit and could find a thing. I also checked arps site and it was a bit difficult to find the info I needed. Thanks.
Why not get billet wheel adapters instead of fighting the spacers? They'd be better than slip fit spacers and you could get them in whatever spec you'd need.
That is what I am getting the billet adapter that bolt onto my hub. My problem is that the fronts hubs have no studs in them and the factory ones will not have enough thread bite for the adapter to bolt on securely. Rears are the same problem only my wheels are the wrong backspacing so I'm moving them away from the frame. I need about 1.5" thick adapters to fit the wheels. The stock studs just won't work.
Well after a long night of searching I found that there isn't an ARP stud made for this car. My only option is to drill them out to accept larger studs or use new dorman studs. Does anyone trust dorman studs? I will be bolting the adapters onto the hub, which will be hubcentric. I've used them before on my daily beater and I am not nice to that truck so I may be overthinking it. I just don't want a failure.
Your car probably has 7/16" studs factory. I've seen Moroso and Strange offer longer studs. Moroso has them in the press-in stock style up to a certain length. Strange had studs up to I think 3" long BUT that was for 5/8" studs that actually thread into the racing style axle flanges. You can only go so far with spacers and such. spacing out 1.5" to overcome the wrong wheel backspacing sounds way too much to me. Plus, what style wheels are you running? thickness that the stud has to go thru the wheel center on top of your spacer and gettting minimum lug purchase will be a limiting factor.
They are 7/16-20 factory studs. I find those, my problem is the knurl diameter that actually presses into the hub. There is no correct size for my application in aftermarket companies. I'm not trying to run a thick spacer that just pushes the wheels out and bolt the wheels on top with the same lug stud. I'm going to run hub centric adapters. They bolt on to the hubs just like a wheel would then they have a set of their own separate studs coming out of the adapter to bolt the wheel on. I'm using some ROH wheels that are from the 94 Firehawk cars. They are 17x8.5 and look great. I'll post a few pics of the whole thing later.
No, they are the ROH wheels that came on the '94 Firehawks. They look like this. http://ls1tech.com/forums/non-lsx-parts-sale/1096210-94-roh-firehawk-rims-near-mint.html The C5 kit from Kore3 pushes the caliper out just a bit and it contacts the spokes on the wheels.
Ahhh, makes sense. If the gap isn't too large, you might get away with a quality fitted slip on spacer (i'm thinking half an inch and under) and a hub centric ring. That might be small enough to get by with some quality standard length wheel studs. It's hard to say without actually seeing what you're working with. Of course, all that depends on how much clearance you need to get for the brakes. I do know quite a few guys who run standard wheel spacers without any problems. That very issue has kept me from going with the Kore3 kit. It's a great kit, but c5s are hard to pair with wheels. I'd love to use the c5 calipers on mine, but I really don't want to change wheels or step up to an 18". Hopefully I can figure out which wilwood kit I need.
Even the standard studs are too short for that. Without the caliper, fitting the wheel still nets maybe 3 to 4 threads that actually thread. I probably don't need the 3inch studs but I was just going to cut them down to size. This really has been the only snag with the kit. Everything else has been top notch. I read up on it before so I expected it but this my second set of wheels that don't fit. I know there is a guide on which wheels fit and which don't. Eventually I'll drop the money for some nice billet specialties wheels but this car is budget built so I'll make do.
I had a similar issue going to Weld wheels on my car. On the rear, I bought screw in studs and drilled and tapped them to fit. Easy enough. On my fronts, I have a disk conversion so I pressed out the existing stud and measured the knurled length and diameter and got the closest stud that matched on Summit. I had to ream my holes just a hair larger, like a thousandth. If your adapter bolts on, if the knurling is a little long, it wouldn't matter because wouldn't that extend into the part of the adapter that the nut wouldn't thread down to anyways? The studs I ended up getting for my particular setup were made by Moroso http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-46160/overview/ You won't be able to cut them, you'd have to grind them down.
I saw those moroso ones but they won't work in the front of my car. The factory ones are .564 for my hubs, so they would be too small. I actually found a way to make some work though. I will have different thread pitches on the front and rear though. For the front I need to order studs for a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo. They are .565 knurl diam. and 3in long. I'll have to cut them down a bit but they will work. For the rear I found some that have a .475 knurl as opposed to the .472 of the factory ones, so I'll have to do some reaming on those.
