Another new best tonight. I got a pass in right after they cleaned the track and she hooked up nice. 10.26 @ 131.5.
That pass had a 63n/53f tune (150hp). I ran all night on pump gas. The cars suspension is all stock in the front with regular monroe shocks and the front sway bar removed. The rear suspension is stock with urethane bushings, boxed lower control arms, adjustable upper control arms and a 1" rear sway bar. On nitrous passes, the car really needs an anti-roll bar on the rear as it twists really hard pulling the left front tire about 1 to 2 feet of the ground.
I hooked it up. I had it working for about a month. Then it appears the actuator solenoid failed. It just stopped working. I haven't delved into it.
The H&R Parts anti-roll bar is in. Nice piece. The car drives much better even with the front sway bar removed. I will say though that the upper link mounts have to be welded to the crossmember on a 64-65 though. There is just no flat surface to weld them to like on the 68-72s. I also upped the stall converter from a 2800-3000 to a 3600-3800. What a difference that makes! I am anxious to try out these changes at the track.
All my little changes keep adding up. A new best on the motor and a new best on the nitrous today: On the motor: On the nitrous:
Thanx Briz. I am working on the suspension to get it to take more power on the hit. My best 60' so far is 1.42. I want to get it into the 1.3s.
I love it! Your new converter, what brand is it? I have a night Hughes lockup version, should be great in my 4L80E...
It is a Circle D brand 4C lock up model. It is about 3700 stall on the motor. It has a billet faceplate and tig welded fins. It is a really nice piece.
Wow that thing hauls ass!! Did your bar come with instructions to weld the clamps to the axle tubes? Mine did but I just have it bolted tight until I can get to the track & see how it reacts
Thanx Harry. It is a ton of fun. Or two tons of fun to be exact. :laugh: The 64-67s crossmember is different. The instruction say only "some" models have an oddly shaped crossmember where the upper link bracket need to attach. I obviously had that model.ou: 68-72s are supposed to just drill and bolt.