New lifters break-in do need to remove inner valve springs

I need to understand the break-in procedure for new lifters on existing cam. Long story short, bent pushrod slipped between lifter and block, putting nice little 1/8" long indent on the side of the lifter at the top. I ordered a new set from TA, these are the nonhardened Johnson lifters that will be replacing a set of the hardened faced lifters. Question is do I need to remove the inner valve springs to rebreak-in these lifters just the like the original? Never just replaced lifters before. I am assuming the answer is yes but that is a real pain in the car.

Thanks

Clyde

 

Yup, and high zinc oil, just like new engine startup I would suggest

 

Post a pic of the 1/8" indent spot. How bad does it look?
Replacing all 16 lifters for one tiny spot that might be able to be stoned down to work.

 

What valve springs are you running and what installed pressure is there ,cam lift?

 

Broke in many cams with the inner springs in,..with regular oil too,..

 

Me too depending on pressure.smeared break in oil on the lobes though

 

Yea I wouldn't try it with 1160 springs or anything Similar,...but the most common 1125 springs aren't terribly aggressive

 

My formula for such things is:
Time it takes to remove springs and put back in vs time plus money plus either being frustrated and/or hearing crap from everybody (especially spousal units) when the cam is wiped and needs to be changed along with the bearings and whatever else can go wrong.

So, I'm gonna pop out some springs.

But I spent a good part of my life working on U.S. dot Gov aircraft and did a lot of things that most people figured was unnecessary (and a lot of it over and over) so I'm used to it.

 

A fast ramp cam would be dicey as well

 

Thanks for the comments. I took some pictures, it looks like I might be able to use this. I used a mic on it and no high spots that I could find. Looks as an indent only. I did find one of the spring retainers laying in the back of the lifter valley in 2 pieces. Seems one let loose. I haven't taken the rockers off that side yet, but was wondering if I could use another from another lifter? I can pick up one of those $5 sealed power ones to steal the retainer off of it and possibly swap it in. Now I have never taken a lifter apart if I remove the tension off that one will the plunger come out of the lifter? I am thinking to be safe I should try to install the clip will the pushrod is still holding it down. I know risky as I don't want to drop anything in the engine.

 

Cam is a TA 290-94H. .491 in, .502 exh. I not sure of the springs TA recommended them on the aluminum heads, I want to think they are the TA 1107s which I can break in together, but they could be the TA 1125 which requires the innerspring to be removed. Since I did break them in with the inners out 3 years ago I am leaning to the 1125s. If I can't find the receipt I am going to have to call TA and see what I ordered.

 

Poke paper towels into the holes in the valley.
Then pull the rocker and push-rod.
Use a magnet on top of the lifer and see if anything is loose. If so, it should come out before the lifter.

(this might be obvious)
Use some nylon rope, (I use yellow nylon from a fish stringer), and feed it in the spark plug hole for that cylinder, then use a breaker bar and rotate the engine to bring the piston up and press the rope against the valves. You will know when you are there, and no need to put more pressure on it, not even as much as spark plug tight. That will keep the valve in place while you work. Then back off the engine the other just a bit and pull the rope out when you have the keepers back on.

 

New c-clip and you're golden.....
easy to push down and replace it.
Protect (clean rags) all areas so you don't drop it thru the valley.