They are the SPC adjustable uppers with tall upper ball joints. Lowers are stock. Specs are -0.5 camber, +5 caster, 1/16 toe in. This is what SCandC recommends. How would you move the lower ball joints forward? The wheels do look fairly set back, but they always looked like that on my car, even with the old suspension...
The lowers can only be moved by replacing the lower A-arms. The SPC lowers add one degree castor, the BMR lowers add 2 degrees and there are others but they seem to prefer not to publish their specs. By moving the lower ball joint forward the 5 can be acheived with the wheel more or less centered. I have the same problem and I plan to use the BMR lower arms to fix it. My wife got the 20% off deal on a gift certificate for me, you may want to grab yourself one before it expires. $500 credit for $400 is a sweet deal. Other companies are running similar promotions. I think UMI had 15% off and free shipping. If you are adventurous and have experience with fabrication you can try modifying the lower arm mounting points (but it wont get you much). Racers do it to correct factory imperfections and get each lower arm to be a mirror image of the other. I will be doing this with my new arms in the spring so you may want to check in with me to see if it was worth it. I expect the new arms will cure the rubbing alone. In this thread you can see an unmodified car. The wheels are smaller of course but in the first and fourth photos you can see the space is larger at the back of the tire. Mine is quite the oposite thanks to my new caster setting. PS: Nice wheels. I am thinking of going with these. Not exactly budget but great price for a two piece.
Awesome, that is some great info. Mean time, I suppose I could just take a hammer to the fender in the one small spot where it rubs if it bothers me too much. Other option would be to raise the front end a little bit, but I don't think that would completely fix the rub. It would however fix the 2" clearance my headers have at the moment lol.
I also enjoy following along and learning here. I want to put 17 x 7 front and maybe the same or 17 x 8 on the rear. Car is a 66 Skylark GS. However in that past my tires have rubbed even on 15 x 7 Weld Wheels on the rear and fronts have rubbed on 15 x 6 Cragars. What will fit on these cars with no issues? Seems really tight in the rear wheel wells. I have looked at 17" Cragar SS, 17" Retro or Rev with grey spokes so far but not sure they will work or what back spacing I need. Where I live they don't stock wheels so you can test fit. Anyone have a picture of a 66-67 with modern wheels?
I think there are some decent threads on here about fitting wheels on those cars as well. They do apparently have less wheel well space than the 70-72s. Also keep in mind that backspacing has less to do with wheel diameter, and more with wheel width, so fitting a 17x7 vs a 15x7 should be similar. Also, with the old school smaller wheels, guys typically run a higher aspect ratio tire, ie a 245/60/15 vs a 255/40/18. This leads to tall tires with fat bulging sidewalls on narrow wheels. The first tire is what I used to run, and it is actually smaller in diameter than the second which is what I now run. On the back tires, the new tire is also smaller in diameter. They are both much wider however. It seems like the average tire size on modern rims is about 26". That is apparently the sweet spot for modern tires on these old cars according to what I have read over on pro-touring.com.
