Next up - Roll Cage -70 Skylark- 6pts - show me what you have done

Please show pics and share the source if it was a prefab kit.

I have searched a fair bit on line and still don't find exactly what I am looking for in a prefab kit.

I prefer a kit made in the USA of coarse.
I prefer a kit that is well thought out for quality fit & finish.
I need minimum to tech NHRA for when at the track.
I want to keep my back seats / interior in even though its a BEYATCH to access the back seat with fixed back cross bar.
I prefer to keep the bench seat in.
I prefer it be as concealed as possible.
I prefer swing out door side bars.

Thanks.
MarkO

 

shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! Not everyone at once............

 

I got mine through S&W Race Cars. It fit ok, and they have a swing out side bar option. I installed the swing out bars and didn't care for them all that much. Also had to adjust the bends on the bars that run through the package tray to get them to fit to my liking. Don't currently have any pictures of it.

 

Thanks Hutch. Would you recommend it or keep "shopping"?

I was going to reach out to a couple of shops around here and see what they charge for a custom job. I am thinking that's going to be the best bet in the long run.

I am still interested in others experiences here...

 

I have a s&w kit complete with swing out door kit and the upgraded bars that are angled to go through the speaker holes....im not going to use it. I wish you were closer-shipping would probably be a deal killer.

 

Art Morrison is the best fitting cage. Most all my friends use them. My friends at GoFast Productions installed this one.

 

If you're the kind that likes to do it yourself, and you're ok at fab work, I think it's a good option to go with the S&W kit. The rear bars that ran through the speaker holes were the ones that I tweaked a little. Just seemed like they weren't bent far enough, but then again, I didn't run them through the speaker holes.

If you prefer not to get the grinder and cutoff wheel out, I'd suggest another option.

 

Mist fab shops will be $2500 to $3500 for a Chrome moly 8pt, and if they are any good it will fit tight and be built to fit you, Alston has heavy duty swing out kits that will cert to 8.50

 

I am quite equipped to fab a kit, no doubt, and most willing to tackle it, just lacking that extra person handy for fitment on this one. I suppose my GTO pal will owe me one after I fit his new exhaust....

 

Here's what I did...I bought the kit from Jeg's. First I had to make a new cross bar to go behind the stock seats. Then I bent the two rear bars to fit through the speaker holes. The front two bars I bent to go around the armrests.

 

Yes , also have that Jegs Kit on the radar. I like that.

 

Here's a few more pics...one with the door open. I love the swing out bar!

 

I always go with mild steel. Unless you are running so fast that ever ounce counts, it's usually not worth the price difference to go moly.

 

Rob, was there enough stock provided with the Jegs kit for your build?

 

Nice thread. I will keep watching

 

Whatever you do, READ THE NHRA RULE BOOK before you do anything. Make darned sure the cage/roll bar fits the rules for how fast/quick you intend to run. And, it's good to know what is expected as far as welds, gussets, seatbelt mounting, etc.

 

Yup...reading is one thing...interpreting correctly is another. Always good to ask a tech lead when in doubt before guessing if interpretation is not clear.

Food for thought:

If only there was a cage that was optimal for a street / strip car. This would be for a car that is faster than 11.49 yet slower than 10.49 IMHO.

With access to the back seat obviously compromised with any cage due to the rear seat bar, it really pinches a car that is mostly recreational use street and occasional strip.

For a full size car with factory floors and firewalls, it sucks that the rear seat bar (brace between the hoop) must be welded or not removable. I appreciate the strength issue, but I have to think a "removable" rear bar can be engineered that adds significantly more bracing than no bar, but maybe not as much as welded. Door or side bars can be removable and only if the rear bar could be pulled out for street use and family fun.........:TU:

 

The back seat in our Skylark is all but impossible for anyone over 50lbs. to access, especially with the non-movable race seats. The only reasons I left it in place was because it looks much better that a bunch of carpet and the dog needs a place to ride. I've gonna have to hire a hot contortionist lady to clean the back window.

 

Just want to add a little info. Be VERY careful with a rollcage on a street car! The bars can be more harmfull in a crash with out padding and a helmet!

 

Very true. I am padding every bar that is even close to either passenger or driver. Harnesses on both seats.