No Hop Bars

Larry, sounds like you are preparing for softer tires?

 

I believe the hardest part on mine was getting the upper bushings out of the housing while it was still in the car.

 

Bummer to install on jackstands. The bushings are a b#&ch to change when you're upside down. If your going the T/A's there may be a little grinding on the housing too.
Doable though!

 

Hi Larry,
Sounds like you are on the same quest as most big block owners-traction.I hope that the no-hop bars do not affect handling as much as SSM lower bars.I had a set on my car but the handling went away big time.I took them off and sold them in Salem last week.I had the steel bushing type,not the poly bushing style.I am of the opinion that only a set of slicks will provide good traction.I am getting by with airbags,a 3.08 gear,a 4 degree retarded Hemi-Killer cam using low stall with street tires.
It was great to meet you in Salem.Take care
Rod

 

It goes much better if there are 2 guys doing the work. You can do about 75% of the job alone. The next 25% can go pretty slow. I replaced my housing bushings with the rear end removed from the car and it made that part easier. The only problem with removing the rear end from the car is that darn brake distribution fitting that is hard to get at and hard to seal back up once it has been disconnected. Bill is right, the bushings are a pain but I have a way to do them that takes a lot of work out of it. Mike D.

 

No Hop Bars.

Larry;- I installed mine in my drive way, by myself. It's difficult, but I used a drill to help remove the bushings. With the upper disconnected it allows the rear to roll backwards a bit. I done one side at a time. I used a rope around the trans X member, and the rear end. Tie it tight, and put a big screw driver in it and twist. With the bottom control arms connected it will roll the rear towards the front and your upper bolts can be installed with your fingers. I like them, and they work. Harold. :TU:

 

the no-hop bars have a part that takes the place of the bushing in the rear end housing..wont be any bushing there at all after installation.

 

HI Larry HRpartsnstuff makes a bushing removal tool that works like a charm you can take a bushing in or out in minutes.i believe if you get on there website you can check it out.

 

An air chisel works well. Let it cut into the rubber of the bushing and then the outer shell. If you use the fishtail cutter it will work its way down the shell and relieve the bushing tension at the same time it is rattling it out. At the worst you will cut all the way through the shell and then you are home-free anyway. If you have almost new bushings it may not be so easy getting through the rubber.

It worked well for me after fighting with them the first time I messed with the job.

 

An air chisel works well. Let it cut into the rubber of the bushing and then the outer shell. If you use the fishtail cutter it will work its way down the shell and relieve the bushing tension at the same time it is rattling it out. At the worst you will cut all the way through the shell and then you are home-free anyway. If you have almost new bushings it may not be so easy getting through the rubber.

It worked well for me after fighting with them the first time I messed with the job.

Oh, and if you unbolt the shocks it will pretty-much put the rear on the floor if the upper cntrol arms are unbolted already. I would consider springing for the HR partsn stuff adjustable uppers as I suspect the bars may throuw off your pinion angle (I think it did on mine anyway)

 

Larry,
You sure you want to do this? It's like the first hit on a crackpipe, that first shot of heroin, the first white castle hamburger, the first carrot stick dipped in ranch dressing, the first time the front wheels show air!!
Once you go there ---- you can never look back!! :bglasses:

 

Larry if you would like to borrow my tool for the bushings let me know it installs bushings with ease.send me your address and i will mail it to you it makes changing them a snap.