Thanks Bill... I couldnt find it in the service manual, and the chinaman reprint of the assembly book has lousy xerox pages; just about illegible. Thanks! ws
Sometimes its not how you feel, but rather How You Look... Pulled the cowl and got the weatherstrip installed (smooth move ExLax!) after a wash in the parts cleaner, and while I was at, I ran the wiper arms on the wheel with some Tripoli. Installed new blades. Picked a new set of HEI wires that were all at least two feet TOO long. Must be for a remote distributor. A trip back to Crack Auto for a generic set of "Cutcherown". Whats the best way to crimp these guys? FINISHED the entire brake system, new rear air shocks, and springs. Had to use the grinder to cut the nuts off the spring perch bolts. That sucked. E-Brake works really well. Outstanding. Drained the rear end oil. Zero debris at the bottom after 30 years. Nice. Now do the math. Gonna bleed the brakes tomorrow. Hopefully no runs, no leaks, no errors. Next on the list is the core support with the toy radiator for a test run. Can ya see where this is going??? Still dumbfounded by the DS length. Hmm. ws
Bill they make a crimper tool for them. I have one that I use when making plug wires. If I could figure out how to post pics on here I'd post one. I'm sure someone will chime in with a pic of one. Keith
Is it that fold over ratchet crimper for doing smaller gage wires too? You know, the one that makes it near impossible to open the crimps back up? I probably should invest in one. Its now later than sooner, but I'd still use it! ws EDIT: I also need FOUR Buick spark plug wire retainers that go on the valve cover bolt/studs. Since I only have 8 connections to make, should I put faith in the china gulag tool department? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynatek-7-...906920?hash=item540c420828:g:LMkAAOSwwNVTuy2h
Advice unknown??? Get a life or get a Buick... cant have both LOL... Got the core support loosely mounted today and am now at an impasse; I am going to need a substantially wider yet shorter radiator for this guy, AND a way to mount it. If I end up buying a new aluminum unit, Theres no flanges on the tanks to sit in the receivers. How do the Al units mount>? I dont have the 72 here to compare with, so I am having to rely on the experienced Obi wan Kenobi' s for some direct and to the point guidance. Wow, was that a mouthful... In between all this I am having trouble bleeding the brakes. Everything is new except the R/B master. Still getting air into the system on the bench bleed. The friggin; Cardone unit managed to recirc dirty juice into the reservoirs. Sucked that out for fresh, yet still have a smidge of air entrapped. IDEAS??? Also tested the HEI voltage supply. At rest and "on" its holding steady at 12.6 vdc off the battery. When cranking, that drops to about 9.5. The aux. solenoid post drops to about 2.8 when cranking. Will the 9.5 be enough to fire the HEI for a start? ws
Bill, OPGI (and probably other vendors) sell original style to '64 radiators for v8 with 4 cores, both auto and manual transmissions. Kind of pricey though at $569. I have a 3 core like these that I got from BillA here on the board. It looks exactly like my original 2 core and fit perfect with the original brackets, shroud, and hoses. you might PM him for details for a source. He ended up swapping in a 455 in his '64 convertible and could tell you what radiator he used for that project. I have an extra top dual bracket and shroud we might be able to deal on if you end up with an original style radiator. Maybe some '65 guys will chime in, you may be able to use a cross flow radiator from the '65 Skylark.
Thanks Mike! The OEM mounts put the micro rad. entirely too close to the fan. Dont forget the V6 is 2 cylinders shorter than a V8 and the 455 is the king of the hill! If I can get a decent cross flow unit and get it mounted in 4 rubber saddles farther to the front about 2-1/2 to 3", I think itll be good. Probably gonna hafta take a top plate and cut it down to about 3 inches off the rear and mount that on top of the CS. Then devise a pair of bottom saddles. This is from a parts car from a member here... ws
AND HOW STEVE!!! Thanks for stoppin' by here! Is that radiator going to sit in that position with the bottom kicked forward? Isnt that gonna compromise the center support/latch? I would guess yer gonna pin the hood? I like the sectioning job on the upper bar. I wouldnt hesitate to do that here. I just hate to cut "air" without having something to reference. Might be a trip to Menchalville, or, ahem, Avery's for some stuff. BTW. Ive been meaning to get out to see ya and take care of that "thing" with you! I dont forget favors granted! Bill
Bill, I'm using a fiberglass hood, so no hood latch...… at least not in the stock location. There pretty much isn't anything on my car that hasn't been "compromised"! LOL
You dont have any of the old radiator mounting stuff do ya??? Went to Avery's and Tisslers today. NADA! ws
So after a half a quart of brake juice and every trick known to man, I pulled the plug and removed the MC for a return. As I was pulling it off the car, it dawned on me that the instructions say to bench bleed it, level, in a vise. This install with power brakes has it tilted up in the front. Any chance of a minute amount of air being entrapped in front of the piston(s)?? I bled it several times in the car, and even made a mess (!) but it wont push oil to the back, not even a drop, and barely to the front. Never had such a fiasco, but then never had to bleed a dry system. Should I invest in a back-fill/suction pump??? NAPA called and has my front U joint installed with the T400 yoke (for the S T-10). If the shaft fits, itll go back for the rear. If it dont, it goes to Green Bay to get cut. Still looking for the header panel (top radiator plate with rubbers) from any 67-72 skylark/GS. I need to trim the front 2-3 inches and redrill the holes. The bottom mounts I can wing. Searching...PARTS GUYS??? No one answers my quests... well a few. More questions than answers. Visited the BAD LAD today. He'll be comin' home next week I hope. The rear tires are P275/50-R15s. Will these fit on my my 1971 Chevy rally wheels; 15 X 7s? ws
One of the things I've in the past when I was having a problem was to jack up the rear of the car as high as I could get it. IF you get it high enough the master will ALMOST level out & then I could bleed the system. From there I went with a pressure bleeder & NEVER again had bleeding problems.
Dry systems take some pumping, you got somebody cracking the bleeders I assume? Yep, myself, and Pat was pumping; a job she knows all too well LOL. We tried for two hours, and she used both feet till she was too pooped to pump! Tom... Im gonna try a vise bleed tomorrow, I hope. I think being level is part of the game. It may be time to get off of the jack stands on the front and sit her on the tires. The rear end is hanging in air with the tires 2" off the floor. The bleeder from Crack Auto is a china job with a squeeze gun and a vacuum gage. Should it pull juice from the reservoir down to the bleeder, or push it back up? ws
So with all the exspurt input from here (thanks to the guys that DO help!), the best way to get accurate numbers for a radiator and visible means of support issues, is to do a minimum MU of the core support, which of course means installing fenders.. Well hell, May as well line them up too. Aw heck, lets toss some other misc. stuff in like the battery tray, and antenna etc. So now, minus the gasser look with no inner fenders, I know where I stand. The pics show the "attitude" with the front skins on the cement too. I like the stance, and new rear tires are happening this week. Had the front drive shaft U-joint and yoke swapped and its a perfect fit. The rear end is on stands at the actual ride height. Pulled the DS for a rear joint. Going in today! A pal from 65GS forum is getting a radiator top plate and lower mounts to me later today, I hope. One pic shows the 72's upper hose. I am gonna be stuck with a rad. thats no more than 27" TOTAL overall in width. Height and thickness I can fudge. One pic shows the snorter to the hood distance. May need a 20" hole saw LOL... ws
