I learned several interesting things with the bench testing of my rebuilt oil pump/front covers I though I should share with everyone. Some of my findings go against what we've been told by others and believed to be true but actual testing does not support. Use this information at your own risk. Civil discussions are welcome if there is any data to support your point. First, before test observations are listed lets talk about oil pressure. As I've said many times and some guys are starting to understand, your oil pressure gauge only tells you if the pump is working. The number it displays can be manipulated to show whatever you would like to see. Oil volume to the bearings is what keeps your engine alive. In a perfect world you only need enough oil to keep a film between the bearing and the journal. Any more is just deadheading and making a higher number on your gauge. Also consuming HP. That being said you need a reserve to compensate for wear over time and thinning due to heat. Think of it like a hydraulic lifter. It compensates for valvetrain wear so you don't have to adjust the lash. The reserve of oil (pressure) is there so you won't have to increase the oil as bearings wear or temp increases. When I say you can manipulate the pressure gauge this is something that has been suggested in several posts. Add STP or 20-50 to increase the reading. If this higher reading puts your mind at ease then it has some value to your psyche but not your engine. When time permits I intend to test the same pump apples to apples with several weights of oil to see what effect it has on the gauge. OK now to the observations. For background info see my post "Re man timing cover with oil pump" We generally accept the need to enlarge the oil pickup passages in the block and use a larger pickup tube. In my tests I have seen where the OE size 350 pickup provides more oil than can be used. There was never a time where the pickup was starving the pump for oil. Granted I can not simulate 6000RPM however the oil passages supplying the bearings and lifters never change size with RPM either. You can only force so much oil through the engine and the restrictions (bearing clearance) are a fixed size. This makes me question the old 10PSI per 1000RPM that is universally accepted as a standard. Required reading, see my post " Oil pressure concern #412" where I drove 2400 miles at speeds up to 100mph with never more than 20PSI oil pressure without damage. My test fixture has a screw in plug similar to a carb jet. I use this to simulate the restriction of an engine to provide a reading on the gauge. I wanted to see what it would do with the output completely plugged. There was no oil movement into or out of my mock oil pan as expected. It appeared the oil was opening the pressure relief and simply recirculating through the oil pump. It was working the drill quite hard and produced 67 PSI max at the RPM the drill could provide. I found this interesting. When the relief opens that is the point it is drawing the highest volume thru the pickup. Was the pickup tube causing restriction? Answer is no. The point is if the pump was getting all the oil it needed why would I need or want to use a larger pickup or drill the block for more flow? The only time this would be necessary is it you raised the relief opening point higher than 60PSI. How high? Don't know, that's for the nerds with the slide rules to determine. I run my engines to 6000 often and never use more than the 60PSI spring in the OE relief valve. Side note for cars that sit without being started for weeks at a time. It takes longer for the pump to draw oil thru the larger oil pickup tube and drilled out block galley increasing the time that bearings are running dry. Use an oil filter with the best anti drain back valve you can find to help with this. I use Purolator One PL25288. It's smaller size also fills faster. I've heard that Bosch ST3423 is also good but have not tested it yet. Next I found it odd when I tested the first cover with a new oil filter it took several minutes of run time to remove all the air from it. It was pumping foam the whole time. I believe it just took time to saturate the filter media. I used this same filter on the second cover and after the filter filled there was no more air. This tells me when doing an oil change first pour some oil into the filter for the media to soak up before installing it. Then don't rev the engine for several minutes, just let it idle to prevent bearing wear. If anyone has something they would like me to try with this setup let me know.