I see a question posted back in Sept 05 about relocating the crossmember. If you are changing out a TH400, it has to move. Mine went all the way forward to the most forward holes. Be sure to consider this before you start. I ran into a problem with the crossmember interfering with the flanges on my full length competition headers. By then I was fully into the swap and had no choice, but to continue. Ultimately, I had to replace the headers with shorties. And that precipitated replacing the entire exhaust system.
Thanks so much for the advice. I will be changing out a TH350, so I have heard that it will work, and when I crawled underneath, I don't see any issue with my TA headers. I do think though, that I won't be able to drop the tranny out, without moving atleast one header. Those bolts are such a pain in the ass.
I noticed you have a reproduction tunnel "tower" for the shifter to poke through. A few qestions please: 1. Where did you get it? 2. I assume it work with the consolette 3. Are there other componenets required with that tunnel tower? Thanks!
I noticed you have a reproduction tunnel "tower" for the shifter to poke through. A few qestions please: 1. Where did you get it? 2. I assume it work with the consolette 3. Are there other componenets required with that tunnel tower? Thanks!
Hurlbird, The x-member location is the same on TH-350, 2 speed & Muncie 4 speed. I got my tunnel cover from a '68 GTO. It did work with the consolette, but I went back to no console. I also used the GTO inner boot & outer boot. Year One carries all of this stuff. Jim
I will complete this thread and remove all the incidental post and then lock it up as a sticky. First I mounted the shifter plate to the transmission. Then I marked my spot on the floorboard from underneath the car based on the center of the shifter plate and drilled a hole. The tunnel "hump" pretty much falls into place with the contours of the floor and was verified by the hole that was drilled from the centerline of the shifter plate. I drew a line around the hump to show me where to far would be to cut. Another line around the inside of the shifter opening of the hump to give a me a first pass hole.
another view of that initial opening. Actually centering the hole on the center plate caused it to be a bit to far towards the passenger side. All cuts now invole enlarging the opening towards the drivers side to center the shifter in the opening.
The shifter is a Hurst Competition plus so a little trimming of the hump was required on the drivers side.
He has a website: www.precisionpontiac.com I've called him on the phone and he is familiar with the buick shifters.
"finished" is such a finite word. It is driveable and has a year and quarter of street action. It was driven to two Buick Midwest Challenges 2006 and 2007 and a BPG Horsepower Nationals 2007. It has been down the strip 8 passes or so. But, it has not been cosmetically finished with new carpet and the console installed. One reason is there is a Tremec TKO500 sitting in the corner awaiting it's turn behind the big block Buick which will require an even bigger opening in the floor. Another reason is I dont have the carpet yet and the guages are in the way for the console and I want new guages so...... But the biggest reason is I am just plain having to much fun driving it to want to work on it :3gears:
I recently coverted a 70 442 from automatic to 4 speed. The hard part is chasing down all the parts. It cost me about $3,000 after I was finished. That included a M21 rebuild, new clutch, and all the small stuff. BEST thing I could have done.:TU: PS - about 40 hours of labor, which was free......:moonu: I did it the entire conversion in a 0ne car garage on 4 jackstands.
Hello Lee, Maybe we can compare notes as I am going to do the vert! I wont have all the parts together for another couple of months; do you have ALL the parts? I bought a freshly built BW Super T-10 from my buddy for a song:laugh: Mark
