Ok guys, I'm getting pretty close to having this engine 100% assembled! I want to run my plan past you all to make sure I'm doing everything right. Right now the cam lobes are dry (lubed journals on install) since I was told lube can mess up degree readings. Now that is all done. The engine is only missing the lifters, pushrods, rockers, and intake/carb. Does it make sense for me to use a drill to pre-lube the engine now while it's in this state? Reason being, I've been told to rotate the engine at least twice while spinning the oil pump with a drill. I'm thinking this would wipe away a lot of the cam/lifter lube if the engine was fully assembled. I reallllllly don't want to wipe this cam. Here's my plan: -Install adjustable pushrods and lifters with cam lube on lifter faces -Set lifter preload, lock pushrod length down -Prelube engine using a drill until I see oil at the rockers. Rotate the engine by hand while lubing. -Remove pushrods and label them -Re-lube the camshaft lobes through the lifter bores (slowly rotating engine to get maximum coverage) -Bring engine to firing position (12 degrees BTDC) -Re-lube the lifter faces with cam lube and the lifter bores with regular engine assembly lube -Apply engine assembly lube to the pushrods, and cups on the lifters and rocker arms. -Install lifters, pushrods, rockers (making sure pushrods get installed where they came from) -Install intake/carb -Engine ready to fire (on run stand) after filling with fluids, priming carb, hooking up gauges ect.
Seems over kill but should work ok. I just lube and assemble everything, Prime the engine with a drill and then fire it off. never wiped out a cam. Remember all these engines were built at a different factory, shipped to the assembly plant and then installed in a car as it rolled down the line. When it got to the end a guy jumped in and cranked her up then drove off the end of the line.
Forget about running the oil pump with a drill until you see oil at the rockers, and don't turn the engine while doing so. Run the pump with the drill until it loads down, once it does, you are done. You are priming the pump, that's it. If you run the pump without lifters, the oil galleys will be wide open at each lifter position. Lube everything, prime the pump, and fire it up. Get as many friends to help. The more eyes, the better.
Don't know which valve springs you are running, but if you have the dual valve springs setup, take the inner ones out for cam break-in. If you're running a single valve springs and they're stiffer than stock springs, swap in an old set of weaker stock valve springs, break-in the cam with them, and put some low rpm easy miles(maybe 50-100 miles) with them on, then swap your new ones in, change your oil and filter and drive on. edit...you still need to prime the oil pump before.
Thanks for the advice! I didn't think about priming without the lifters being a problem. I'm definitely going to have my roommate and girlfriend there to help haha. I've got a set of TA stage 1 valve springs but I'm doing the break in with the presumably stock springs that came on the engine, glad to hear that's correct! Changed the plan to this: -Install adjustable pushrods and lifters with cam lube on lifter faces -Set lifter preload, lock pushrod length down -Remove pushrods and label them -Re-lube the camshaft lobes through the lifter bores (slowly rotating engine to get maximum coverage) -Bring engine to firing position (12 degrees BTDC) -Re-lube the lifter faces with cam lube and the lifter bores with regular engine assembly lube -Apply engine assembly lube to the pushrods, and cups on the lifters and rocker arms. -Install lifters, pushrods, rockers (making sure pushrods get installed where they came from) -Install intake/carb -Prelube engine using a drill until I see oil pressure. -Engine ready to fire (on run stand) after filling with fluids, priming carb, hooking up gauges ect. The reason I'm so paranoid is because I wiped a few lobes the first time I ever did this on an SBC . . .
The biggest thing to ensure the cams lifespan is: - 10W30 oil, thicker isn’t better it’s just more load on the dist. Gears. - add zinc additive - prime the pump or use Vaseline - get it started and vary the rpm from 1800-3000 rpm never staying at the same rpm fir more than a few seconds. 20 minutes of this and the cam and lifters are broken in together.
Only adding a bit of info. Flat tappet cam and lifter bases are lubricated by "splash" and that is the reason for the "2500 RPM", as the oil RPM that provides enough "splash/sling" of oil to hit the cam and lifters. The varied speeds help with enough distribution to all the lifters/lobes as well as helping ensure lifters rotate. And while many people will argue about the need for ZDDP, adding the oil and or additives that provide enough dinosaurs and most of the funny alphabets of the periodic table (except the ones that glow-in-the-dark) will help create a bonded layer that is somewhat sacrificial to the surface of the cam/lifter bases and other high friction wear parts and prolong their life. While you (and may people) may switch to synthetic or reduced ZDDP oils after the break-in, those "surfaces" will lose their protection afforded from the ZDDP, and replenishing by either introducing additives or running a blend of the higher ZDDP oils is a good idea. I figure the time, effort, and cost of rebuilding an engine, is far outweighed by the lessor cost of higher-priced oil that has sufficient ZDDP, is well worth the money spent on something I'm going to pour down the drain (meteorologically speaking...) Here's to an uneventful and most successful break-in run. Please post a followup.
How I do it, also all 3 times I have done it since age 16 (21 now). Use provided lube with cam (or that grey molygraphite engine assembly lube), use same lube on lifters. I use oil the journals. I use comp cams break in oil, 10w30, no additional additives. With the engine assembled, minus intake and VALVE covers, I prime with a drill on medium speed until I feel it "catch". You'll feel it bog down. Spin it clockwise. If you properly lubed the bearings you don't need to turn it over except to drop the distributor in where you want it. Anywhere from 4*btdc to 10*btdc. Give yourself room to adjust the dist. Fire it up and hold it at 2-3000rpm. I go at say, 2500 for 10 min, 3000 for 10, then back to 2500ish. Then shut it down. Prolonged cranking, excessive spring pressure, and idling kills flat tappets during break in. Good luck. Everyone has different methods. Just lube and rpm is all you need.
X2 don’t make it complicated for yourself. Prime the pump, drop the distributor in, fire it up, take er to 2500 rpm
This isn't related to Pat's questions but when there aren't adjustments, like for my '75 350, do the hydraulic lifters adjust themselves to the needed lash? Reading this post makes me a little paranoid about not having adjustments like on a chevy and assuming that all is well and I am not far away from where Pat is [in relation to first crank, and mine is in the vehicle connected to tranny etc]. Forgive me Pat for interrupting your question [hope this is not a forum violation]. This particular thread is informative for me for sure. Thanks ...... Lane
Hydraulic lifters do not operate with lash, they are pre loaded. The stock Buick valve train is not adjustable. With a factory stock engine, you torque the rocker shaft down and preload is set. Once you rebuild an engine, and surface the heads and/or block, use a new cam, you need to check for push rod length because the requirements may have changed.
Hi Lane, you are absolutely welcome to ask questions in someone else's thread, in fact we encourage it! It's great to hear that other folks are in the same boat and can get their questions/concerns answered as well. If you copy "site:v8buick.com measuring pushrod length" into google you'll get some good threads about setting valve lash with the stock valvetrain. Thanks all for the advice above! I was planning to run Comp Cams 10W30 break in oil. I'm planning to rev the engine from 1800 rpm to 3000 rpm for a few minutes and then let my rooommate take over while I check for leaks and set total timing. I was also planning on doing the break in with the valve covers off for the first few minutes and paint on the pushrods so I can verify that all the lifters are spinning! I plan to take a video of the whole break in process and will be sure to post it on my build thread!
Larry, when I ordered pushrods from TA I automatically purchased the same length that came out of the old engine not considering how the resurfaced heads might change things. The resurfaced heads changed a lot relative to how the intake manifold fit back together to the block where that rubber gasket goes - it wouldn't go! I called Tim at TA and he said take it back off, re-silicone the "valley pan" and add extra silicone at the nexus of manifold and where it touches the block to create a gasket of sorts. It seemed to work but may leak of course. Anyhow, what do you guys advise as to determining if the push rod length is correct. These are stock 350 length 9.65" [so that's why they offer so many different lengths]. Or is Patrick's idea best and go to adjustable if possible or is it too late? I should have been active on this forum before the rebuild but thought all was well having a 455 rebuild DVD that claimed they are the same which I now know are not altho' the basics may be very similar. Thanks patwhac for allowing me to interrupt this conversation. Will be watching for the video of the process. Will it be at the https address above?
Take your stock pushrods, cut 2" off, cut another 1/2" off. Tap both cut ends to 1/4-28. Go to hardware store and buy two 1-1/2" long 1/4-28 studs. You will now have your two pushrod checkers. You probably aren't going to use the stock pushrods for anything anyways. Might as well put them to use.
You may also need a longer than standard vernier caliper to measure with the pushrod checker (weather homemade or not). Though some checkers have a scale on them I think. I got this one for $42: https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-1...words=caliper+DCLA-1205&qid=1592551522&sr=8-1 Probably not the most accurate device but hopefully good enough for pushrods.
Stand a known stock length pushrod up straight next to the adjustable, then just measure the differance. Add or subtract from the stock size.
Thanks Mart and patwhac ............ I wondered how that comparison should go ....... actually pretty simple ..........
