The front coil spring on my 71 GS has a yellow paint mark running down the length of the spring. Was this a factory assembly mark? Have been reviewing a lot of the information provided on this site and didn't run across this one. I'm replacing the springs and would like to duplicate this if in fact it is factory correct. Thanks for any help. Bob Phelps
Not really. Massachusetts They were rust except for the yellow paint. tried to upload a picture but got ERROR
So in the service manual on changing coil springs, you're supposed to have them rotated a certain way. I always mark mine with a yellow paint pen so that when I install them, in I put them in rotated in the correct direction. Probably what the last person did as well.
Chassis Manual will show you the factory correct spacing from the coil end on the bottom to a stop & drain built into the lower control arm Believe the yellow paint was an easy way to ID the correct spring at the factory during chassis assembly. They had +/- 15 different coils that year-front + rear- all depending on the car build (loading) Ex: AC added xx lbs to the RH side- use yellow spring on RH side.
The Factory used paper tags with the part numbers and letter codes printed on them to differentiate the front L&R and rear springs. For front springs with the exact same letter codes, they printed circles around the letter codes for the "higher vs lower" spring rates. Depending on the engine size, and Ac vs non-AC options, a Big Block car may have used the same code "without the circle" on one side and a Small Block car could have used the same code spring "with the circle" on the other side. For the Chassis, often paint "striping or dabbing" was used by quality control to verify parts were torqued/assembled correctly. Duane
To align springs end of spring should be visible in alignment hole in control Arm pocket but not completely cover hole. That’s the easiest way to remember it. It can be tough to do that without a spring compressor. I have done a bunch and it’s not easy. Springs are dangerous. Many experienced mechanics have broken their jaws and worse. Be careful.
Thanks guys for all the great information. I will proceed with caution. I'm thinking that I will look at the position of paint mark on old spring and reproduce marks on new spring. I have the Service manual and factory production manual and will rotate new spring as suggested.I have a spring compressor and hopefully enough sense to keep my face as far away as possible. As Dave said ,it's not a fun job. thanks, Bob P
If you use a length of 5/8" all-thread with a steel plate and a rubber pad at the bottom and put the all-thread thru the shock hole at the top you will have a very controllable and safe spring compressor and will never do it any other way again. Use double nuts and washers as required
Dave, I'm making one for my current project and will post pictures when complete. Meanwhile, I'll try to have pics of the original one we made by the owner (boardmember) of that tool . Matt
Matt thanks. I will be doing my friends olds W30 and might like to try your method. Taking them out though I just use the jack and lower it. Works fine. It’s getting it back in that’s the trick. I don’t like the sledgehammer Method.
Matt, that's is the same as I've been doing for years. Leaves no chance for the spring to fly out expectantly. I use a coupling nut on the top and just unscrew it lowering the lower control arm. Be sure to grease the threaded rod to avoid galling the threads.
