Passenger Lower A-arm/ MT-SS Interference

I'm sure many of you have been here done that. First time for me. I pulled the front drum assemblies off of my 70 Lark in preparation of a disc brake swap. Need more whoa at the big end. It's always strange pulling perfectly new, good parts off of the car, but at least it comes apart easily, (fairly fresh restomod).
Passenger side rear a-arm bolt is obstructed by header tube. I'm pretty sure the fix is to unbolt header from head and remove bolt. (I'm gonna freshen up a-arms , media blast and re-epoxy)

Just another one of them thangs......Jim

 

I had the same issue. Save yourself the time and cut the head off the bolt. That's what I did.

 

Was my first thought as well. That'll work to get it apart, but you cannot feed a bolt in from the rear of the car, the frame bend is too close, so the header has to go for reinstallation anyways....
I have errands to do today , but I hope to get to it today. That and some plumbing, going to remove the distribution block , fab a bracket and mount the prop valve next to the MC.
Be easier to hitch up line lock, bleed , etc. I'll post what I end up doing....Jim

 

Is jacking the engine up any help???

 

That worked for my hooker headers.. at least it's winter.

 

Yup

 

That bolt wouldn’t come out the front with header there when I did the A arm swap on mine. I suppose undo the header from the head and the collector flange and all that jazz, or cut the head off in the time it took to write this!

 

Unbolted header , gave me just enough clearance to wiggle the bolt out. Needed to unbolt header to re-install a-arm after I repaint it anyways, as the only way to install bolt is from the front of the car. Moving on to prop valve bracket and plumbing for disc brakes.....Jim

 

I am 99% sure you can get a bolt in from the other side. I have the same headers on my 64 and encountered this issue last spring. Also consider grinding a notch in your A-arm for reassembly where it hits the header tube - helps with spring install. Just noticed you're working on a 70. Mine is a 64, so maybe not the same clearances.

 

Ya, I hear ya on clearancing the a -arm where the tube hits, but it only took a quick prodding with a long pry bar and it popped out. I'll use my internal spring compressor to git the room I need. If that is a PITA, I'll use your idea, but I think I can get it. ..AmeriCAN, not AmeriCan't.......Jim