No vinyl,and yes RHD. You sure are going to have some fun driving down around Cornwall with it. I can remember towns down there where it was hard to get a bike through. Watch out for all that SALT on the roads. Ford2.p
Looks like a ground wire someone added. Can you take a photo of the switch on top of the brake pedal please ? Should look like the one in the other photo. I will post a "cruise/brake switch" scan for you :TU:
Is this it? It's above the brake but I think I've got the whole pic upside down in the first one. I think it is the one you're thinking of.. You can see the trailing wire that goes nowhere to the left of it that I'm holdin in the other pic.
Nice Yes. The country roads can be quite interesting The salt is murder over here. Once I get the four rusted fuel lines and the lower trailing arms replaced I'm getting the underside air blasted off and waxoyled in all the nooks and crannies.
Someone on another forum (ROA) said that the problem with my indicators might be a bad ground wire. I don't suppose that's where the indicator lights ground to is it? I can't find where they ground in mine. I'm definitely getting that CD. *EDIT* Done. Just ordered it I have the Fisher body manual and the Inline manual already on paper but it'd be handy and a lot less messy like that! Cheers
Paul: Here is a recent thread with info about slow (or inoperable) power windows ("lifts", I guess in Great Britian): http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=167033 I would be surprised if BOTH window motors were bad ... make sure they are getting electrical power and check the old grease on the lift track/regulator as this grease gets old and very sticky (needs to be replaced with modern lube). Door hinge pin replacement bushings are available for your car ... the doors are HEAVY, though. If you do the (engine) motor mount replacement, you can do the door repair with no problem. For the little surface rust along the trunk jamb area, I would look locally for a repair product called 'rust converter' in a little bottle. Stateside, it is available at auto parts stores along side auto spray paints and spray primers, etc. It is a creamy-white color and can be brushed on with a little hobby paint brush. It goes on white and converts the rust (oxidation) to a permanent black color which will stop your rust issue immediately. This will stabilize that area so you can deal with it at your leisure later. As far as the switch on the accelerator pedal, it just seems odd that a switch would be misplaced as this is a very low maintenance area. I know Erik has a lot of experience with these cars. Another resource is Adam Martin (screen name: Smartin) for these full-size Buicks. Does your car have the "Max Trac" option (early traction control device)? If your cruise control works properly including the brake pedal disengage function (turns OFF the cruise control system when you depress the brake pedal), then there is a switch on the brake pedal and it is working ... meaning "what is the switch on the gas pedal?" Ken
Thanks for that! The motors sound fine, and they run up to the top to hold the window in place. I've had the whole seat out and have already removed the side panel (not the steel one just the trim) and looked inside. I can see the white plastic wheel that should sit in the track and go up and down is out of the track. I just need to figure out how to get at the rest of the mechanism now to put the bit witht he white plstic wheel back in the track. I think I may need to take some bolts of the interior steelwork to get at it. I ran out of time yesterday unfortunately as the trunk seal took longer than I thought.
The little white "wheel" is supposed to ride inside of that metal channel and there is supposed to be a liberal (a lot) amount of quality grease. After cleaning out the old grease, I would select the replacement lube carefully - possibly a synthetic lube that will not get too hard, but will cling and stay in the channel. There should be a slot at one of the ends of the channel where the white plastic wheels can be pushed in. There are other pivot points of the window lift mechanism that should be cleaned and sprayed with a good quality penetrating oil and then lithium white white grease to make sure they articulate freely. I think that if both rear window motors dislodged themselves, then there is some part of the window and/or attached mechanisms that are not moving freely. Ken
That makes sense thanks. I'll have a fiddle with it next time I get a chance.. Do you recommend any particular lubes that you've used, either brands or what's in them (might make it easier to find an equivalent here in the UK)?
Only 400 Pound, that's a bargain.....:eek2: :eek2: :eek2: Here in the Netherlands you pay by weight and type of fuel: A Boattail running on petrol will cost you 1540 Euro / 1403 a year in road tax. A Boattail running on LPG (much cheaper fuel) will cost you 2664 Euro / 2427 a year in road tax. But cars older than 25 years are road tax exempt.....
Not really that handy, because your government decided to "freeze" that law in 1997. Another board member from Blighty owns a 1973 Electra that was build in November 1972, he tried everything he could to get road tax exemption, but the car was registered for the first time in 1973.......ou: Here the road tax exempt law moves up every year, so a car with a first registration of January 12th 1984 is road tax exempt now :TU:
Yeah.. I though it was odd it didn't move as time went on. I think they're worrying about new cars lasting longer these days (although I can't see that.. Newer cars are so complicated they'll be a nightmare to fix once they get past a certain age I bet, and those plastic handles and parts won't last). Fortunately my favourite era is 72 and older I was born in 72 so I'm driving a car that's a few months older than I am which is pretty sweet..
