Power Steering Box Oil seal Wanted

Discussion in 'Parts wanted' started by Duane, Aug 12, 2018 at 9:38 PM.

  1. Duane

    Duane Member

    OK,
    I was working on the 69 car and noticed the box was leaking at the seal near the rag joint. Does anyone on the board rebuild these and have any parts?

    I can pop off the snap ring and replace it, if that's all there is to it. All I would need is a new seal.
    Needing some help here.
    Duane
     
  2. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    Duane,

    That selector shaft seal is readily available at ANY auto parts store in a rebuild/seal kit. Might as well do the pitman shaft seal while your at it & the end plug also. Very easy to do. I've done MANY.


    Tom T.
     
  3. gsx455-4ever

    gsx455-4ever Gold Level Contributor

    Duane . When we had those leaks at the dealer we would replace the " Adjuster Plug " It has 2 seals . A "O Ring " around the plug itself . And a inner seal for the stub shaft of the box. It requires removing the lock nut around the Adjuster Plug and removing the plug. There is a specific tightening procedure to replace.

    Best to have the whole box re-sealed
     
    dl7265 likes this.
  4. mrolds69

    mrolds69 Still restoring!!!

    X2...maybe do the whole deal. I know Tom means sector shaft seal, not selector shaft. I think you can get that one anyplace, but might have to wait a day. I did the pitman shaft seal deal and it sucked for me. But the box was in the car and I didn't want to pull the whole thing apart. If that seal is leaking, you can be sure the pitman seal will, too. Those are usually the first to go.
     
  5. gsx455-4ever

    gsx455-4ever Gold Level Contributor

    Yes I believe Duane is talking about the stub shaft seals where the Steering shaft connects to the box. Pitman shaft and Sector shaft seals can be done in the car but the stub shadt seal is a lot easier to do with the box out of the car. And then it only makes sense to do ALL the seals on the bench
     
  6. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    That's correct sector shaft/stub shaft seal.

    SORRY.
     
  7. Matt Knutson

    Matt Knutson Well-Known Member

    Rockauto has complete seal kits for about 12 bucks. Several different suppliers, too.
     
  8. gsx455-4ever

    gsx455-4ever Gold Level Contributor

    Matt . I am not sure if that seal kit has the stub shaft seal in it . I don't think it can be replaced as its part of the adjuster plug . I could be wrong . Time to get the parts manual out and quit falling back on my memory . I think it has the large "O" ring for the outer part of the adjuster plug but not the inner stub shaft seal
     
  9. Duane

    Duane Member

    OK,,
    Well here's the deal. I don't have all the tools to take this thing apart, and the guy Nick uses is at least 8 weeks out. This would not normally be an issue, but I only have 4+ weeks to go.

    So either we put another one in for now, and then change it out, which would be a PITA on a painted car, or we find someone that can do it within 2-3 weeks.

    Is anyone willing to take on the job? I can stick it in a box and ship it. Right now it's mostly cleaned up, and I have a hose attached to both outlets so it wouldn't leak during shipping.
    Let me know.
    Duane
     
  10. gsx455-4ever

    gsx455-4ever Gold Level Contributor

    Duane . Sending you a PM .
     
  11. gsx455-4ever

    gsx455-4ever Gold Level Contributor

  12. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    Duane,

    In reality a basic re-seal is NO BIG DEAL. You DON'T have to remove the adjuster plug & upset settings. Remove the snap ring, dust shield & then the seal. Reverse removal for installation. Apply oil/grease for lube. The BIGGEST problem most have is not paying attention & "Rolling" the lip of the seal. Pitman shaft. Remove pitman arm, remove snap ring & washer, remove top cover with four bolts & unscrew adjuster, (you don't really need to remove the adjuster screw as the shaft will pull out WITHOUT removing & the setting is NOT disturbed) count number of turns, pull out pitman shaft (or shaft & cover) & knock out seals from the top, there's a top & bottom seal. One's a seal the lower is a dust seal & washers. Replace o-ring seal. OR, you can do it without removing the shaft although it's a little harder, but you need to remove the cover & replace the o-ring anyway. The shaft is tapered on the bottom so as long as it's lubed up there should be NO problem with rolling the lips of the seals. Remove BIG snap ring on end plug, there's a hole on one side of the box you press in on to be able to get a screwdriver in behind the snap ring to pop it out. Remove plug & then o-ring. Install new o-ring. Just upon re-assembly just be sure there's NO grit/dirt. Your NOT rebuilding the box ONLY re-sealing. Don't forget to lube things up.
    These boxes are pretty bullet proof & if not run out of fluid for long periods of time just keep keeping on like the energizer Bunny.
    Approx. time two hours or less. More if your not familiar with it & your 1st. time. Look at a chassis manual or Motor's book. It's really not that hard.


    Tom T.
     
  13. Duane

    Duane Member

    Lou, has graciously offered to help me rebuild the box. Hopefully I will have the seal kit in a few days and we can do it this weekend. I appreciate all the help here and the description Tom gave above.
    Thanks again.
    Duane
     

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