so it's time to bring my baby up to modern braking. she still has 4 wheel manual drums. with the new upgrades we did the car is alot faster. she is 3800-3850 with me in it. the only 1/4 mile pass i got it went 121mph which is up from the 119mph. said pass was only 97mph in the 1/8th but after some tuning that is now 100 pushing 101mph. now by my river math. that should be getting 124ish. my 60' were only 1.49 and should be alot closer to 1.40 when the converter gets tuned in right. if so I should be getting close to 128ish. well over what my drums brakes can safety handle now if I can save enough I'm eyeballing wilwood 140-15272 for the front and 140-13513 for the rear, but swap calipers to put the bigger on the rear. if life doesn't go right for a back up I was looking at some right stuff detailing kits : AFXWK01C for the front, AFXRDM1 for the rear. these are nothing more than basically factory front disc brakes up front, and either the same d52 calipers in the rear or the metric d154 caliper. I have tried 3 times to call them and find out but they never call back . so after all this the question comes if I can't come up with enough money to get the wilwood, do you think the other stuff will be up to task to keep me safe. not sure if it would be safe to use the dual piston wilwood up front, and the single right stuff out back? the good thing about dragracing is the brakes dont see alot of back to back to back stops like say highway or other racing forms do. would love to hear from ppl who have used any of these kits. a few other things on my car, manual brakes, 0 street time, skinnies up front, 9-10" slicks in rear. master cylinder will be figured out once I know the volume I need depending on kits used
Back when I did the brakes on my 72,in the late 90’s,I put large 12” rotors in the front,and kept the factory drums in the back. At the time,the car was running 10:90’s @ 122,and those brakes were working great,just as planned. However,with the new engine’s power,I am looking at mid-9’s for ET,and I am currently getting the chassis ready,and updating the brakes. I still have the same 12” front rotors,but I removed the single piston iron calipers,and got a pair of Wilwood D52 aluminum 2-piston calipers. I have going to update the rear to discs,with a kit just like the AFXRDM1,except I will swap the factory style calipers for a pair of Wilwood 2-piston D154 style aluminum calipers. I have always retained the e-brake setup in my cars,but the Wilwood calipers do not have the e-brake provision,so I will be removing the other parts from the car. I also run manual brakes. I am swapping my factory style iron 1 1/8” bore master cylinder for a Strange 1” bore aluminum MC. I also got a correct disc/disc proportioning valve from Inline Tube.
I looked at the wilwood d52/d154 calipers if needed for an upgrade......but at almost 400 a pair I might as well buy the wilwood kit to begin with. I know they also make larger calipers that are single piston too, and they come close to same area of 4 piston or the 2 piston calipers. but seems like only dirt l go that route????
funny thing is dad joking said leave the drums on put a chute. I think at what should be 10.60s at mid 125s I will be going faster on 4 wheel manual drum than I should . the good thing Norwalk has lots of shut down, and 90% of the tracks around and no box events we go to are now running only 660. so speeds most of the time wont be that high ......... I know either setup will be an improvement, but with my wife going g back to school and only working part time, and me having to run the kids kindergarten and preschool which is only half days, I'm basically part time too ......so there's not alot extra right now. but I do t want to cheap out either
I didnt want it to sound like i was saying anything bad about the 2 piston calipers, just the cost to upgrade later doesn't make sense seeing I'm starting at the beginning now. the cheaper regular kits are 355 on evilbay and 280, so under 650 shipped. plain rotors and caliper, rubber hoses. I can upgrade both kits to drill and slots and stainless hoses and I believe powder coated calipers for about 200 more. not sure how performance gains this will net. the willwood kits are of course more at 575 front and 700 rear for 1225. again plain rotors, but powder coated calipers, but no hoses....so closer to 1300 if comparing parts. if I needed to upgrade later to twin pistons that about 750 for all 4, so actually more by a little to go that way than just buying the wilwood kits to start with ???????
Yes disks are nice, Twins are Nicer by far.. But the heart of the system is that makes the difference.. I have put a few 2000 Chevy Van Hydroboosts on a few pick ups.. I don't see any reason why I cant fit them on my 67 skylark... On Ebay some sellers make&sell astro van adapters. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-...=item4415882b82:g:z~MAAOSw0o5aofRT:rk:41:pf:0. never used this one.. New to me.. These are the common one that most use,,,https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blank-Hydr...=item4665feba37:g:3XQAAOxy5jxSavxU:rk:24:pf:0
hydroboost kits are out there for alot of vehicles...they worked great on my suburban with more than 10k on the back but with no ps that's out for me
There is a vendor on eBay,in NC,I think it is Scorpion Performance,that sells a rear disc kit,just the The Right Stuff style kit,and comes with drilled/slotted rotors,and the Wilwood aluminum 2-piston calipers,for $560.00. I am putting one of those kits on at least one of my cars. I thought about it for my 70 GS chassis,but I would really like to leave the e-brake system in that car. Things like brakes are often the last part anyone thinks of upgrading. All they think of is making more power with the engine. Before I ever put my car together in the late-90’s,the brake upgrade was the first thing I did. I like to be safe. I see these Chevelle guys put their 572’s in their cars,and do absolutely nothing to the brakes,and awhile later,they call me looking for a frame because they wadded it up. The factory brake systems,and chassis,were good for these cars when they were built,but they were not making the power that we are making today.
Brian, if you can find that link I would love to see it. There is also this on ebay for 550. but it's only like 25 buck under the 140-15272 which is 4 piston. but doesn't come with spindle or steel hoses. but pretty sure I can use the 140-15272 on my drum brake spindle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVELLE-NOVA-CAMARO-STOCK-SPINDLE-WILWOOD-DISC-BRAKE-KIT-/282365435207. I've known for s few years I would need brakes, just wanted to get the motor going
does anyone know if the right stuff rear kit is the older d52 set up or the newer d154 metric setup. the spread on the d52 is around 7" bolt to bolt i believe the newer is like 5.5"
The larger rear drums are an easy upgrade https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/drum-brakes/11-rear-drum-brake-upgrade-kits-for-gm-and-ford
I'm going to go with the Corvette brakes and 17in wheels on my orange car, they stop 3600lb vetted from 140mph with ease
The Right Stuff kit is the smaller 154 style caliper. That link is for Classic Performance. They offer a rear disc kit,with the D52 calipers for $600.00. Their caliper bracket is different,and they claim they make a different one for the BOP housings with bolt-in axles. It sounds like their bracket bolts onto the front side of the housing end,and not the backside,like the other ones.
found this in the instructions. need to make sure but pretty sure the 8.5 are the smaller 2.560 size. •This kit will fit only 1964 to 1970 Buick / Olds / Pontiac “BOP” axle housing with a 2.747” diameter retained bearing and will not fit c-clip retained axles or later BOP axles with 2.562” diameter bearings. • Verify your wheel clearance using Figure
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Weld...1969-77-GM-Caliper-3-Inch-Backspace,2000.html this is another rear options that totally get way from dealing with the bearing.i can just cut the center out of my dist shield or make a shim same thickness to keep bearing preload the same
Something to keep in mind...being a dedicated drag car, you have very little contact with the skinny front tires. You can't use much stopping power up front before you're just locking up the tires
that's why I wanted to try to use the larger set in the rear, then maybe an adjustable valve to help po limited front pressure
I'm looking to upgrade my drums in front to discs and add an adjustable proportioning valve for the same reason . I plan on running skinnies up front at the track and 235/60/15s on 15x7s on the street. Good idea or not necessary? Apologies for intrusion on OP....Jim/Rott
