I would also suggest one of these as well.I will be installing one on my big tire car when I am that far along https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...OjKgnMIBCO6cD0KMyY_HlGJ9Ys1DxLeRoC-jMQAvD_BwE
Thankyou, I added it to my Summit Wishlist for my future drum to disc upgrade. Really not that much more than an OPGI original disc drum prop valve. Appreciated, Jim
These are my Wilwood Calipers. Just finishing the frame clean up/paint work and I can start assembling. If these don't stop me, .... I don't what else will. Larry
nice. funny on that 6 piston unit all 3 on same side are different sizes, I would think that would cause uneven pressure across the pad and cause one end to wear out faster than the other???? but they know more than my tiny apple. my front kit 140-1017-b came in last night, I will order the rear stuff today once I see which caliper actually comes with that kit so they are the same. funny thing is the non drilled kit normally 649, was on sale to 488 and still is, then they had and additional 50 off of 500 so I got the line lock too for free. 700 bucks of goodies for under 500 bucks.
I've been looking and cant find my answer so maybe some here will know, the rear kit I'm building will be s 2 piece rotor. my question is which way does that rotor bolt on correctly. does that flange on the middle of the rotor.......middle meaning side closest to vanes.......bolt to the back side of the hat. this will put the rotor basically more centered over the hat flange. or does the out side bolt to the hat.......outside being the side closest to rotor face surface where the pads contact. this would put most of the rotor offset behind the hat. if I had a caliper mount already in place this question would answer itself, but seeing I have to add that. the answer will also change which rotor thickness I get. if it mount offset behind the hat there is no way I can run the 1.25 rotor, the weight difference between the 1.25 and. 81 rotors is .7 pounds each. also see the have scalloped rotors not a ton more each, like 30 buck more, that are about 3 pounds each lighter. would be interesting to be able to see a test showing what 6 pounds of weight here does to the acceleration and stopping time and distance. I know they use these on dirt racing and alot of bikes, I would honestly think even though we might be storing from higher speeds than some dirt cars and such, but overall drag racing has to easier on the brakes than they are
all parts order. front is a wilwood 140-1017-b, they came in from jegs next day after ordering. ordered the rear stuff today, all was in stk minus 1 rotor. went with the wilwood 11.75 x .810 rotors and matching rotors. jegs matched the price found on Amazon for the calipers and pads saving 34 bucks off list price. I also used a promo code "savemore". took an additional 25 bucks off other parts.........code is good for 10 off 100, 25 off 250, and 50 off 500. this is the second time in a week I have used this code......saving a total so far of 75 extra bucks. I did go with the wilwood brand rotors instead of the 10 each cheaper speedway brand. I didn't go with the scalloped rotors even though there was 6 more pounds that could had been shed. maybe when I replace then if needed ever.........after research when these fail they tend to do so spectacularly. so everything is ordered minus master, I will post pictures along the way, motor is coming out now to attend to a few oil leaks so no testing right away of performsnce
started in on the front today, and quickly hit snag 1 bracket lines up nice. but my upper bolt is 1/2 inch and apparantly disc brake spindles are 5/8 inch up there. directions say some spindles may need drilled and tapped. kind of off that bracket sits almost flat on the drum spindle which would require spacers for the disc spindle........would it make since to just have an extra bolt in the kit that is listed for drum brake spindles????? 2 bolts would be cheaper and easier than getting a tap. issue 2 occurred when some of the rear brake parts came in on fed ex, the rear calipers that jegs had listed as ano black.....not powered coated......came in gray. but my front are black???? wilwood says they are phasing that black out........ but jegs does have front in gray and if I pay to buy 2 more they will send them and then I can return the others. guess I will just make the drive down to exchance......but I'm sure my wife will want to go which will mean a trip to her favorite mall. good news it appears from here it should be straight forward. going to stop by fastenal to see if they have a bolt that will fit my thread......fingers crossed
Is that the same issues another member on here had,and he needed a drum spindle from a Chevelle. For whatever reason,they are different than the Buick spindles. I got red calipers for front and back,but yes,my OCD would kick in,if I had black in front and gray in back.
I had to get drum spindles for my 140-1017 brakes The Disc wont work.The good part,drum spindles are plentiful and people are looking to buy your disc spindles from you..
I could drill and tap, but my luck one or the other would break off. fastenal can get the same bolt in 1/2-20. with the tapered cone it should still center up, I got a very thin washer that could be used if needed under the head of the bolt. 8 dollars shipping for 2.25 in bolts this one has spacers for disc spindle. would just think for 650 retail price could come with the bolts to fit either spindle if the are selling it to fit all. that or the drill bit and tap
I was worried that if the dril wandered a bit or the hole was tapped off a tiny bit...Well..you know...lol I got a set of spindles for 30 bucks shipped and cleaned them up..
I was worried about that too......but mine are drum brakes orginally ......so clearly there are several spindles used, more than just drum or disc
ordered some more parts, not brake related. my car has a wiggle right after launch. nothing bad, just a little side to side sachet. almost never needs any steering wheel action to correct. but its enough that any more would require correction. I think its basic simple bump steer as the suspension travels. seeing I will have the steering arms loose for the brake upgrade I figured this was the best time and seems like they drastically reduce bump steer. I know my front end has way over 4" in just down travel. I have bounce my oil pan off the track b4, never measured it but that has to be closer to 8 inch just downward. watch video of b4 and after change......funny thing the top bolt on that brake caliper on the link clip is the exact bolt with same bracket I'm dealing with https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gls-ss-6472gskb/
This is what I have in the front. My front skinnies have 2.5” backspace,and clear the big calipers,BUT they come real close to the stick-on wheel weights. These are also 12” rotors,so everything gets pushed out towards the wheel more,compared to a traditional rotor. You could go with even less backspace,and still keep the outer appearance normal. One thing I didn’t like is Weld’s new S71 wheels come with a very shallow center cap,and it bottoms out on the dust cover,before the wheel is seated. My ProStar caps are deeper,and don’t have that problem. I even got one that is missing the WELD emblem. Thanks for nothing on that one.
This thread I started a while back should clear up any front spindle questions. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?th...m-brake-spindles-chevelle-camaro-nova.329782/ Larry
awsome info!!! wish I would had seen this first. also wish wilwood would put this info into there directions or better yet simply make another bracket with the correct size whole for those of us that have the smaller 1/2 bolt rather than list this kit as a fit all then finding out after it's all tore apart that you need more stuff. Larry do you recall how many small washers you needed in the lower bolt between the bracket and spindle. it appears my drivers side needs 3 to make it sit square. tomorrow I go to get my calipers the same color .......and Monday the 1/2" socket headed bolts will be in. I want to see how they fit and all b4 risking drilling my spindle.
Ben, .... I ended up using two of the supplied .032 washers on one spindle and one .032 washer along with one .020 distributor end play washer (which is exactly the same ID & OD of the washers in the Wilwood kit). I have a collection of extra distributor washers in various thicknesses from all the kits we used over the past 30 years. One thing I should mention is that since the spindles are symmetrical you can swap the abutment brackets from one spindle to the other (moving the bracket from one side of the spindle to the other) to try and achieve a better fit. By doing just that I reduced the necessary washers from (4 of the .032) on one spindle down to to the single .032 & .020. That just shows how precise GM was when they machined their spindles. Hope this helps. Larry
my brackets are marked as right and left. and only I side of the each bracket has the recessed for the head of the bolt. so mine do not appear to be side to side interchangeable.
