jegs today did make caliper color issue as right as they could. even though I would had preferred the black ano since wilwood cut that color but used the same part number for both the black and grey color...........at least I have 4 matching colors
after sitting here with nothing to do all evening I starting roughly figuring weight of stk rotors and calipers were and it appears the wilwood 1017 kit saves about 37.25 pounds with the solid rotors, and more if I would had gotten the drilled. and its about 32.5 pounds of that is in the rotors and hubs........so pure rotation weight
What I said was that the "spindles" are symmetrical (can be used on the right or left side of the car), ... Not the abutment brackets. What that equates to is that each flat abutment bracket (left or right) can be test fitted on one or the other spindle, (since the spindles have two lower holes). Then you pick the combination that requires the least amount of shim washers. The issue is with the uneven mounting surfaces of the spindles, .. in that the flat mating surface of the upper hole is not on the same plane as the lower 2 holes. In my case all 3 holes of one spindle were on 3 different planes, ..... hence the need to use shim washers in the first place. That's the best I can do to try and explain it. Larry
I follow you now, I didn't even think about in terms of swapping spindles. the one side that was test fitted to the best I can by just holding it flat on the upper mount seems to need 3...........tomorrow I will see what the other side needs
so bolts are in, used some grease to leave a very good impression, looks to make contact on a good portion of the bracket. I think we will be safe.
my global west steering arms made it in today so since I was ready I put them on so I could finish up fitting the rest of the front brakes. the arms went straight on no issue except the crown nut for the tie rod end doesn't go down far enough now to the pin in so I will need to go get lock nuts. The arms are thicker, at a slightly different angle, and shorter. I went with these to help control the bump steer I think I'm feeling off the line. the steering wheel appears straight as do the rotors but wont be able to full tell till driven and seeing the motor is coming out, that will be a little. the rest if the brakes went straight forward and shimmied almost right per starting instructions for the fun of it I put the tire on and gave it a spin, sure was nice to see more than 1 or revolutions b4 stopping like how the old drums did. I knew it would but it was nice to see it easily go round and round and round. I'm sure besides alot better stopping, and overall weight savings, and rotating weight savings, I'm sure there will be some gain from the less drag on the old drums.
so for the giggle factor today b4 pulling the motor and transmissions, I it the wheels back on without the rear drums. I assumed the brake drag on the rear would be similar to the front which is literally nothing........i applied air pressure to each caliper to move the pads out against the front rotors. but once down on its wheels my car pushes so easy now. it's one handed....b4 I had to put my shoulder into it and um 6'4 350ish..... so I can push.... i bet between what will be with the rear drums figured in a solid 50 pounds of rotating weight, what has to be closer to 75 total pounds plus the drag of my drum brakes I see an easy tenth or more freed up. what a nice side benefit to better stopping power, free et. I wish I could had done just this to see the difference by itself, but we will have a converter update too........the good thing is if it slows down I know what to blame
first part of rear brakes came in today and again right away I ran into an issue. the 3" deep steel hat that I ordered from speedway that is the same part they say is part of their GM 10/12 bolt weld on rear disc brake kit......well it does slide over the axle........it appears the ID is 5.8x inches and is tiny bit tight to slide over my stk axle. I didnt get a chance to pull my moser axles but I bet they dont clear them either. so I either turn them down and have a chamfer cut to clear the corner so the hat sits flat on the axle flange.......or I return them and spend another 55 bucks each hat to get the wilwood hds which are 6.14x ID. but that poses the next issue in that the wilwood hat is only 1.96" deep not 3". that means with my .810 rotor it doesn't clear the rear end flange where the backing plate bolts.......I'm sure by the ti mb e the caliber is in place the weld on bracket should clear.........but if not I would need to return the rotor and calipers and exchange for 1.25 thick rotor to gain close to another .44 offset the joys of building a kit from scratch
Any time I order a set of Mosers,I have them machine the wheel flange to 5.90”. I haven’t found any rotor hats that won’t fit that,so if the customer wants to convert to rear discs later on,he doesn’t need to take the rear apart.
mine might be that size will have to see tomorrow.......but the speedway hats are smaller than 5.9" these wont clear my stk axle flsnge for sure........very very close though
If you don’t specify a certain OD for the wheel flange,they usually leave them the larger diameter,like OEM,which is about 6.125-6.25”. Enough to be too much.
I got mine apart and measured......appears I lucked out, when I measure mine its 5.815. Jd race must of had the foresight to know to do this.......thank you........ should clear completely my drums brakes are still in place, but looks like it will even clear the chambered curve of the hat too. I had to put the racecar back into the trailer for a little bit, my racecar time is actually my make money time too, and seeing I still am waiting on rotors, it's time to make money for a few days
does anyone know on a 72 drum brake car if the block where the warning light switch hooks is that just a distribution block, or is it a combination block with proportioning valve too?????
They are all a type of proportioning valve. The drum/drum version was different than the disc/drum version,and now you have a disc/disc version. I just bought two of the brass disc/disc prop valves from Inline Tube. They sell one with the correct fitting for the wire,but the generic plastic one that the other ones come with. No adapters needed for the brake lines either. You could also opt for an adjustable valve from Wilwood,or any of the other manufacturers. If you ordered your shafts through Jim,then he was probably thinking ahead. When we have “been there,done that”,we can make changes or tweaks to the next order,build,etc.
What distribution block fits the 71-72 drum brake car converted to front disc without having to change any fittings? I've been looking for that but nobody seems to have the exact info.
so I guess I should ask. since switching to disc disc. and putting a manual pvalve which is going to go in the front line since my skinnys will lock up first. will that factory drum/drum block negatively effect the stoping bias or pressures. planning on using a master cylinder that has and 2:1 offset in volume........if I understand what I'm reading correctly......with the larger volume going to my rears
When switching from drums to discs,you need less volume,more pressure. The prop valves that I get from Inline Tube are #PR102 for disc/drum,and PR102B for disc/disc. When I put one of these on my 70,I needed a different line for the left front caliper. The original line had the bigger fitting at the valve. I just got a 10” stainless piece from them,pre-made,with the fittings at each end. One end already had the 90 degree bend for the caliper end. I mounted my valve slightly forward,and flush against the frame. I did away with the valve bracket. If you have your valve in the original location,you would need a 12” line. I did not need a different line for my 72. It already had the smaller fitting at the valve. The factory cast iron disc/drum prop valves are the same way,with the smaller fitting.
