I looked at wilwood unit, but it has 2 outside for the front and the adjusting valve for rear.....I would need to plumb this backwards to get the valve for the front.....then need a splitter, and the plug one of the ports that would now be going to the rear
Reading the description and some of the reviews on the link abive , it appears that the adjustment is to the rear brakes. How would that help when changing to skinnies up front? Wouldn't you need to turn down the front pressure to prevent skinnirles from locking up? Jim
that's what I need to do........so to use the wilwood part linked above I would have to plumb it in backwards from their instructions scrubbed on the side........ for my purpose I think I should get rid of the factory block on the side of the frame. its ment for drums and drums work on volume not pressure.......just join them with a simple union for the rear and tee for the front, it a single manually adjusted valve going to front inline with my line lock to the fronts. I'm debating on if I should replace the rear line with 3/16" instead of 1/4"
Keep your existing lines. Remember,when the main line T’s at the back,it’s smaller from there to the caliper.
Excellent! That's the one I was looking for! Thanks for the info. This was for drum/drum cars converted to disk, correct?
so finially got enough time to get the car back on the rack and get the rear disc brakes fitted and basiclly in minus plumbing and final welding. I started by cutting my old backing plates mounting flange out. I did this to not overload the axle bearing......without this the mounting plate would be pushing on the seal by almost .100" my rotors and hats are from speedway motors....3" hat and 11.75" x .810 thick and vented. hats were like 30 bucks each and rotors under 40, bolts were like 5 bucks. I did notice these hats did not fit over my old stk axle flange but did fit my moser. so a stk flange would either need to turned down or a larger diameter hat used. calipers are wilwood dynalite, about 150 each, the brackets came from jegs for 12 each and pads 50. simple bolted caliper to bracket, put pads in, figured out where I wanted to mount to be out of the way from frame, shocks and adjusters,etc. I settled in on the front side of the axle.....test fit the wheels for clearance......used a large magnet to hold in place, non found. to center up the caliper, I just applied air pressure to the caliper and once it was holding just tack welded to hold. everything slide and unbolts easily, pads not touching rotor. just down to removing the axles b4 welding to not melt the seals, weld everything up, then run the lines. I will be putting new weld tabs on for the flexible braided lines to just make the installation easier than hard lines all the way to the calipers. these are fixed mounted calipers so flex hoses are not required. for under 550 with fitting and brake hose. So far everything went smoot and fast only 2 small issue were if I had stk axles the hats or rotor we need something done......and now once fully welded in place if I ever brake a tee bolt 2 wont be able to be put back in. I went with 1.75" pistons. I feel there is enough room if I was street driving I might opt for the larger and thicker 1.25" rotor.......same price
the bracket and the tube are now as 1. just finish up the line work, install the new master, drop and engine and trans back in and see how it stops
Well after more than s month again of sitting b4 I could get anything done, I said f it this week, scheduled nothing for 2 weeks in the shop and said its racecar time. Backed the trailer up, roll out my baby and put her in the shop, shes not leaving again unless on her own power. After test fitting new wilwood master, getting pushrod adjusted, make bracket to mount line lock to, bend and make new lines to proportioning valve, line lock, and tie into existing lines. Very pleased with how it all came out.....will get pic tomorrow...... Bled master, reconnected needed lines and started to get fluid out to the corners. It was alot longer to get fluid out there, and all the air out. But after several trips around the car working both sides of each caliper I think I have it.......I bet dads leg is tired tomorrow from all the pumping. Lol. Good news she stops when pushed across the shop, dad says pedal seems to be similar height and feel so far. 1 step closer, motor and trans goes back in tomorrow if no new fluid on the floor. I'm shocked at all the new connections that so far nothing seems to be leaking
Still need to wire the line lock, all connections seemed bone dry which really shocked me, figured I would have one leak somewhere. Next up date will seeing how they stop once motor is to life again, it and tranny made it's way back in this afternoon, so now it's just all the bolt on stuff
Finally got track time, after several drives around the house, I made a light 660 pass felt good, made a light 1320 pass at 110mph, felt good, made a full pass and had plenty of stopping. Pedal is much lower than I'm used too.......and travels farther, but once everything fills up there is tons of stopping power even at 125mph........I think I can adjust the pushrod a touch to be longer to bring the pedal up some and i will be happy
Yes, closure, so many threads end without a resolution. Great to see your efforts end in success. I have been following along, as I have a winter brake system upgrade planned. On another note, everybody wants to go faster, it's the smart man who makes sure he can stop faster as well , kudos. Jim
Well after going low 6.70 in the 1/8th last fall I knew it was more than time. In fact to be honest I should had done this years ago. I'm hoping to be able to put a chute on it over the winter for the just incase factor. I know my car has more it yet......but at 125 its cover 185 feet per second so even a long track with 1/2 mile shut down only leave 14 seconds.........in the event of a total brake failure I figure 25-50% of that will be used up trying to pump the pedal and oh shitting........at least the chute might bring me down under 60 b4 hitting something hard.
Sorry it took so long to get to this point, it for sure was not the plan. The only thing I'm not 100% happy with is even though I bought brackets for 11.75 rotors, and the same caliper wildwood uses in other kits for 11.75 rotors, the pads over hang the rotors????? But the good news is they make a 12.19 rotorwhich is .220 per side taller and when I measure from top of pad to top of rotor it's almost perfect...........so I might have been shipped wrong brackets, but its only 75 bucks per pair to get wildwood rotors or 50 if I want to get speedway. So a cheap easy fix. Time slip from test and tune
Good to hear your progress. My old weld pro stars using aerospace brakes I had rotors whittled to 11 3/8” to fit those wheels. Now upgrading to holeshot wheels I have full room. Upgrades made in wrong order. No racing yet till fall. Work shedule has me in life change. I hope I am happy w it in end. Fun on hold. Keep us updated. Surprised about the pads hanging over. My opinion is wrong bracket for caliper. Pad should never hang off edge. Refresh me, fixed calipers, correct? So pad not reaching toward middle completely. Hopefully the big rotors fit your wheels. So pass will fit correctly Measure measure measure. Chris
The 12.19 rotors are only .440 total bigger around......so only .220 per side. Yes full floating. It is possible the brackets were packaged wrong, but the part number says for 11.75"
How much is the pad overhang? Possible wrong bracket packaged Or how they are designed. Which I have not heard of.
Your rotors have a large offset. Mine are much less putting the caliper closer to the hub/flange where there is less clearance around the circumference.
Pad hangs over by about .220, I'm guess the brackets were just wrong. As far as I know, the rotor are same offset just different diameter. Will buy just 1 and check
