Newbie question.i swapped out my 350 to a 455 into my 68 Skylark. And was wondering did you guys repair your radiator or end up getting a new one?Thanks Ali
A new one. Just put "aluminum radiator" into the V8 board search and start reading. There is plenty of information that will help you make a decision.
Don't think you have to go with Aluminium...there are good brass copper ones out there too: http://www.usradiator.com/
I'm in the same boat - looking to replace my radiator (69 Riviera 430 - stock) I've read all about the 1" and 1.25" 2 row aluminum radiators being the best option, problem is I can't seem to find any in stock. I actually ordered one from Jegs, but it showed up damaged. I called Champion today and they said that they are our of the 2 row 1" but have a 2 row 3/4" - Is that safe to get? I also talked to Jegs and their tech suggested a 3 row and they said it was a popular seller, but I hear 3 row doesn't cool as well. Sorry to hijack the thread, if I need to start a new thread I will gladly do so, but my question seems on topic. I do have my original radiator that I can get re-cored which is something I am considering. Besides the 2 row, 1" what is the next best option? Thanks Bob
You can recore your original but if you have or are going to do any substantial engine mods for HP gains than it probably still wont be adequate enough to cool it down. Stock rads were barely adequate when these cars left the factory 50 years ago. Hunt down a 1" or 1.25" two row aluminum rad and save yourself some grief and money.
I have a stock radiator and 455 (462) and I drive it in normal traffic without the a/c and it gets warm at long lights. (200 degrees). I think if you are going to drive it, an aluminum radiator is a wise investment. I think the DeWitts is the best choice out there right now and they can customize the outlet so a stock hose fits. It will all be a little pricey, but I am not sure cheap is the way to go here. Next time mine is apart the DeWitts will go in. BTW... Larry is THE WIZARD! I just read his stuff... alot!
I had an OEM Harrison 3 core re-cored for my .030 over/TA 413 cam build. With the stock shroud, clutch fan, new water pump and 180° thermostat, it runs cool. Granted there are some mods but to quote someone else on this board: "the Buick engineers didn't design these cars to run hot."
I know the engineers didn't design them to run hot but a vast amount of people have stated that these old BBB ran hot from new. Also alot of people on this board have said stock radiators are insufficient, especiallyfor performance builds. Anything I stated in my post was information I've gotten from this site in other "rad" or "running hot" posts.
Back in the day, there WAS such a thing as a 190* thermostat. Today, your choices are 160/180/195. With that 3 core radiator and the A/C blasting, 210* on a hot summer day was the norm. That's halfway on the stock gauge BTW. Not a problem for normal street driving. Back then, we actually had high octane leaded fuel available at the pump, and if you used the correct fuel, detonation wasn't a problem. Detonation is the most likely to damage your engine. Fast forward to today, we have E10 or even E15 fuel, which tends to make our engines run on the lean side. That combined with retarded ignition timing at idle and low speed, will make an engine run significantly ABOVE the thermostat rating. Hot running temperatures and lean fuel mixtures can make detonation more likely. It can also drop your oil pressure as oil temperature can run higher than coolant temperature. I think 180* running temperature is a good goal to shoot for. It's a compromise to keep the oil clean, and for performance. New cars will run closer to the 195-200*, but they have microprocessor controlled fuel injection, and ignition timing with knock, and O2 sensor feedback control, and the PCM can make changes 60 times in one second. If you want your engine to run cool under most any temperature conditions, you want to go as big as you can with your radiator selection, then let the thermostat do it's thing and CONTROL the temperature of the system. Thermostats are rated at their OPENING temperature, that's the temperature it first STARTS to crack open. It takes on average another 20* for the thermostat to be FULLY open. That means that a 160 stat is fully open at 180*, a 180, at 200, and a 195, at 215*. In normal operation, the thermostat only opens enough to keep the temperature of the system at it's rated opening temperature. It isn't meant to open all the way, once it does, it doesn't have any more CONTROL over system temperature. That means if your engine runs at more than 20* over your thermostat rating, the system is out of control. If you have a 160* stat, and run at 190*, and you think that is fine, it isn't.
Quoted for truth. Thanks, Larry. If your idle or cruise temperature is maxing-out your cooling system, you've got no extra capacity for heavy loads like towing or high-speed/heavy throttle operation.
Summit sells a nice line of copper radiators for realistic money: I picked up a three row and it seems to be good quality. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-382014
Thanks for the link @Bigpig455 . I just learned my '70 455 has a pin-hole radiator leak and I may just upgrade with new vice a repair. Not doing it now; but good info to have. -MIG
I have bought a radiator from http://www.usradiator.com/ for my 67 wagon. Good to work with, good price, all copper/brass.
