Here are some measurements : Retainer . Says use with R 1584 FE . Bower RNF 1584 Outside Diameter 2.5 inches Shaft Diameter 1.780 inches Thickness .750 inches Bearing : Hard to read : TIMKEN U499 Made in U.S.A. Outside Overall Diameter 3.110 inches Inner Shaft Diameter 1.750 inches Thickness 1.025 inches Roller Diameter 2.930 inches Hope this helps a bit . Measurements could be + or - a bit . I did my best . I know these came from my 70 Estate Wagon years ago and I remember what a pain in the ass till I got the correct replacement . That's when I learned it was listed as a Cadillac Commercial Chassis Rear . I was cleaning out the garage and came across it yesterday .
Thanks for posting the pics, yeah it’s a big one I like how Buick spec’d a “commercial “ chassis rear for the wagon, makes me wonder what kind of loads they anticipated those wagons would be subject too.
Yes Mark . Also another item I remember from my days at the dealer in the early 70's . We had a Service Manager that was very mechanically inclined and wasn't just a " Customer Representative " . He told me that the reason there were the rings in the early wheels was that there was a great many "Lug Breaking Incidents " and the ring was there for that purpose . I know there has been a " Poo Pooing " of this theory but I tend to agree with it . I've seen it on many large trucks and the lug breaking was cured by a hub that was " Supported " . I don't want to stir up the pot again but that is my opinion . I don't want to debate . Thanks .
Mark here's another update . I believe this is the race for the bearing and the bearing # is U 499 not 0 499 . I'll EDIT it in my other post The race has a marking of U 460 L and is a Timken Race . It is 3.150 outer diameter Its funny what I'm uncovering in the garage during this cleanup . Crap I forgot about .
Any hope for this? Bought out of salvage yard. Sway bar has come up and cracked housing. Internal inspection shows housing resting against ring gear preventing rotation. Geez loise. Did a spend 150 for nothing?
ring and pinion and posi are worth more than you paid for the complete rear...BUT you will need to find another housing.
Don't know the axle bearings placement. One side has a large radius . coworker has stated one side has a has a spacer rail -yet opposite side has cage in view The bearing closest has the larger radius
The way the old guys use to check straightness of a housing is the old 8 ft fluorescent light bulb trick...lol slide it through and see how straight the axles are to the light bulb/ LOL. old school back yard junk.... The stories they would tell ...I have talked to old guys about tons of stuff....some stuff works others are just plan goofy... Jim JD
Axle bearings.... Normally the outer diameter will have a starter recess on the outside diameter. again the only reason for anyof this is to make life easier on install. c-clip axle bearing can be installed either way. I would take the heavy radius to start in the tube end If you have a old goos used bearing use it to drive the new bearing in once it is inside the housing tube end. take a piece of BRASS (preferred) across the old bearing and strike it in with a 4lbs hammer as it will take less effort and each strike will diver further.... keep cris crossing the brass to keep the bearing square on strikes. YOU will heard the ping when the bearing bottoms out. Same with the seal use a square block of brass I use a 1" x 1" x 3" long to install this stuff. Always keep the bearing and seal square with the hole. Good luck Jim JD
An update on this exercise. While cleaning for rebuild water could be seen coming from axle tubes etc....Now I had to have old friend take over other guy turned me away. Starting with all new bearings The shims on pinion were reused and new crush collar brought to within 50 thou of original via press. This guy had a rectangle iron block that pinion sat upon then we placed rear housing atop. Next he put pliers on outer pinion bearing and heated with propane torch and placed bearing on pinion. I have had a flat jaw pipe wrench since 1975 and was told we were going to set preload together.
A couple pipes for leverage and off we went. I didn't get a chance to tach collar on replacement yoke like I did late 70`s so it was left off. After quite a few pulls we barely could remove play in assembly ( pinionshims bearings washer) I think we measured torque to turn at 10 inch pounds then removed old nut for new and took it up to 25 inch pounds considering new bearings. I couldn't red scale my glasses werent that strong+ even with air conditioning was sweating so bad couldn't see anyway.
My question now ,or problem is I don't have a part number for rear drum that will fit on the axle . I want to say it is supposed to have a flare on center of drum that clears raised part on center of axle.. My search in auto store has a diameter smaller than axle . I have been searching all night and just now picking up an idea that two different sizes or registers were used
The BOP drums had a 2.75” center hole and the Chevys had a 2.78” center hole to accommodate that step in the hub. You can also hone the hole out,so it slides over without getting stuck.
