Reblt Carb back, still running a little rough

I would run it briefly, as gas evaporated quickly, but you don't need to warm it up...

 

I pulled the plug it looked fine. Not wet, not burnt looking, etc.
On another note I was poking looking at things while it was running. The first two plugs on pass side I heard a ticking noise. That classic arcing sound. The wires were arcing where the came the closest at the plug. The second plug from front was LOOSE. I tightened it and put the wire back on, arcing gone. Still running rough. ha ha ha. I do feel it cleared up the roughness a hair. I checked all the other wires and plugs. Seemed fine.
I have got a few suggestions to adjust the idle/mixture screws on the carb. Maybe they just have them adjusted wrong. Easy enough to check, little effort. I will tune them in all the way and count turns and write them down. Most I have read or told is turn them in then both out 1.5 turns and adjust from there to see if it clears up. After that I will do the compression check.

 

I did change out the vac hose from back of carb to PCV valve. In doing that the grommet bit the dust, I need a new one. I found them on Parts geek and ebay but they list multi part numbers. They all say they fit my year/motor.

 

Well it is an incremental process. finding leaking current and shorts is helpful. It does make me wonder how the electricity was getting to ground? Maybe fire it up at night and take another look and verify you don't see any flashes of spark?

 

I meant to look at it last night in the dark, forgot. I have another set of new wires and a cap. Maybe I will put them on if I don't see anything at night if the compression test turns nothing up.

 

My Idle-Stop-Control-Solenoid on my carb died, spade connection broke. Why does it have a power source, what tells it to do what it does? I have it adjusted manually right now so the idle on the car says up. What is the diff/purpose of it and the idle screw to linkage on the carb?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-74-Bu...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

see below

 

Yes it is a AC car, but it does not work so I have the belt removed. Oh well I have a new pretty one to put on the motor. Thanks for the info.

 

I do not have ny manuals. If everyone had one no one would come here to ask questions.

 

Very true and trust me when I put that rebuilt carb on this past weekend and it was still not running as I expected I was mad and could not get to sleep as easy. I will order it.

 

Thanks Larry! 1970 manual - free: http://buick.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1970/1970 Service Manual/index.html

scroll down past the ads...

 

Larry - Can he eliminate the solenoid?

 

Call Larry, We got yer number man LOL

 

I hate to tell you that is SO not true. The help here is much more specific that the Chassis manual in many cases. You DO want the book though...

 

It was only drivers side and motor was COLD but I tried a compression check before dark tonight on the drivers side of motor, all 4 reading were 150 - 152. I did it taking one plug out, test, put back in, then the next. Tomorrow I will do it with the motor hot, pulling all the plugs out before I do it.

 

Did my compression test today. Let it run for 20 min to warm up. Pulled all plugs, kept throttle plate open, disconnected wires from coil.
Starting on drivers side front of motor to back. 150, 145, 150, 145, pass side front to back, 150, 145, 145, 145. On the low readings if I let the wife crank it a few more ticks on the gauge the lower ones would get 150. These seem to be good readings?