Hey everybody, I have some aftermarket gauges on my '72 Riv and the oil pressure hose has sprung a leak. Larry previously advised this may happen, so thanks again for the heads-up man. This has happened in the engine bay thankfully and is not a major leak, just drips some oil. I would like to replace the hose with either copper or braided. Before I go off and give myself more work, am I correct in thinking that I will need to drain the oil before changing it as the connection is at the base of the engine as on the picture.
No need to drain the oil. You will have a few drops maybe a cc, but no more. Unless you change it with the engine running....
Ah wow! That's a relief! That saves loads of time, glad I asked. Thanks so much as always guys. John - thanks for the link. It seems to be unavailable. I am currently trying to source some suppliers in the UK to avoid the crazy shipping and import charges. Are these gauge tubes always the same size and fittings?
Hey everybody, I just spoke to an extremely helpful gent at Jegs. We were working through the replacement of the hose and I was also referring back to the original instructions. I wanted to run a few things by you guys. Is it better to use copper or stainless steel hose? I prefer the look of stainless and I believe it is more durable and better in a vibration environment. Apparently the original warning light on the dash can be linked up as well as the gauge using a T connection. I believe I will have to reinstall the sending unit as it is not present (as shown on picture.) What do you think of the items listed below? Stainless hose Hose recommended by gauge manufacturer T fitting Sending unit Here are the instructions for the gauges: Oil pressure Temperature I am curious about this note in the temperature gauge instructions that recommends installing the temperature sender into the oil pressure sender location and then getting another adapter that provides an additional outlet. I am not sure that has been done on this set up as both the pressure and temperature warning lights seem to be disconnected.
On my Nailhead, I use a "Cross" so I can have a oil pressure switch to trigger my fuel pump relay, and a switch for the oil light and the source for a stainless line to the gauge. For temp, I have the original temp sender location used for my Fuel Injection ECU coolant temp, and the rear location, is a temp sender for the gauge. I installed an inline T into the heater hose supply at the T Stat housing for temp light. (the Skylark has "coolant always flowing" hoses). You can run a T for the oil pressure light and the supply line for the gauge. I prefer stainless and use piece of slit lengthwise rubber hose as a sleeve(s) anywhere it may chafe and grommit through the firewall. You should be able to find a second source on the intake where coolant flows for the temp light and use the original sender location for your temp gauge sender so you have accurate reading. The light may be "off" a few degrees, but still adequate as a "failsafe" indicator.
the copper kit is fine. you dont want a pile of brass fittings hanging underneath where you cant monitor them. put a T up on top on the fire wall. stainless would be overkill IMO. agree on the grommet or in the heater control bundle.
Hey Michael, Thanks for the info although I am not sure I understand it all lol! I will keep reading it over and see if I can understand it better. So you recommend putting the T by the firewall? I understand that as it is harder to see and more vulnerable at the bottom of the engine. How would that work though, tube from the gauge, through the firewall, to the T, then tube to the engine? What does the T secure to? Do I need 2 lengths of tube? Do you have any pictures of your engine? What is the switch to trigger the fuel pump relay? Is that a safety cut out of some kind to kill the engine? When you say 'and the rear location, is a temp sender for the gauge' do you mean you have installed a new unit of some kind for the temp sender for the gauge? BBBPat - that engine is immaculate - love it! Did you do an engine out rebuild? Thanks so much for the pictures, do you have anymore? I still prefer the look of stainless and will probably go with that unless somebody can give me a good reason not to get stainless braid.
I try not to be too complicated. If you need help with the puzzle, just ask. The Nailhead oil sender boss is on the top of the block on the back passenger side. I used a nipple (short pipe) and then a brass "cross" (four holes) attached to that. They provided me with three "ports", one for the stainless to the gauge, one for the oil light switch, and one for a "low/no oil pressure" (safety) switch, that I use to trigger my EFI fuel pump relays. (no oil pressure, no fuel flow). So, it is a bit more complex than your need for two ports with a T. 20171220_224105 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM 20171220_224105 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM BBBPat is suggesting you run a line from you front oil pressure boss, to the firewall and use a T at that point to feed the line to the gauge and a oil light switch. That keeps the potential issue "too much at the oil pump area" at the front of the engine and safe from damage or possible leak where you might miss it. On the firewall area, it is easier to keep an eye on. My thinking is the oil light wire is already at the front, but he has a good point.
thanks Mike! where I come from, manifolding with a single source feed maybe a tad bit industrial, but those 455s with AC really hide that potential leak. one word of caution for Adam is if you decide to do the "T" down below, DO NOT USE BRASS PIPE for the main nipple. it doesnt bode well to vibration especially with a weight hanging off the end (switches and T's etc). if it breaks off youll have about 5 seconds to pump 5 quarts of oil out that hole. a black steel or stainless steel nipple is De' Riguer. I think an AN2 braided line to the upstairs connection could look slick, but nobody will see it. again... KISS. also consider a PTFE thread sealer. it seals and also acts like a locktite to keep the fittings tight. jmho. pm sent to Adam
Your welcome. Yeah, I had a 4 inch nipple, and it did crack, and started dribbling. (it was an off center tooling and very thin wall at the threads) I found a short and very thick wall nipple(.075 ) and am using that, but plan on swapping it out with steel. Yes. Brass "work hardens" from vibration, but I am constantly cleaning the engine bay (car shows), so I can keep an eye on it. (and another reason I have the oil pressure switch to kill fuel if I lose OP. Primary is fire from 65PSI high fuel clow to feed 2x4).
Only if the Mopar your spanking, runs into your ass end. Seriously, you want/need to be able to shut an engine down, during a run, in event of a mishap or various failures. There was talk of having the ability to remote shut down cars by the Crew Chief from the line for years.
I'm thinking what if you need to sacrifice the engine running to save the rest of the car from barreling into the concrete on the other end? Power brakes need to be powered by something, even if there's usually some reserve pressure
I see what your driving at. (see wut I did there?) I always never say always. So, there might be a time, but things happen fast and even faster on the big cars. Most shutdowns are not an attempt to save an engine, but to prevent/eliminate source of fuel fed fire. My point in my car is to make sure no fuel is flowing if the engine shuts down, ) oil pressure switch accomplishes that. Second is should I loose pressure, the fuel would stop, but I know the car can be steered and braked without vacuum assist. I have had to shut such cars down and still drive them without power, so I am not concerned with it, but some folks may never have experienced that. Always good for folks to talk about stuff, someone is always learning something.
