Ah thanks so much for the information Mike! Really appreciate it and the pictures. I understand better what you're saying now. I see what you mean about the differences between yours being at the back of the engine block. Ok, so considering that I am pressed for time (Buick is going into storage soon) and I have about 4 hours of sunlight per day as it is winter, I will just replace what is there. I will have a chat with these guys - https://www.earls.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/ to see if they have anything that will work for me as it will be quicker than getting it from the USA. Failing that, I will probably end up getting this from Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/41059/10002/-1#reviewTab Do you guys think this has everything for straight swap out? The only other part that I was thinking might help is: https://www.jegs.com/i/NOS/741/17530/10002/-1 which will allow me to run it neatly back along the engine block, or up and along the rocker cover recess where the cables are. Also, do I use PTFE tape on the threaded connections to help seal them? The trouble with trying to run everything back to the firewall is as Mike pointed out, the light sender cable is down at the bottom of the engine as shown in my original picture. I would have to remove all of the wire harness shielding and pull the cable all the way back to the firewall. I'm not closed off to doing that, I'll just do it another time (like summer) when I have more time and my hands won't freeze off, if I am going to go down that route.
Also, do I use PTFE tape on the threaded connections to help seal them? NOT tape, paste. Stay away from aluminum AN nipples too as they will work harden and fail just like brass. Get a steel nipple from the hardware store (not galvanized) or from a truck (Lorry!) supply store. The tubing (AN) fittings are a mechanical joint. Never use sealant on them, only on pipe threads. Buy a small tubing cutter for any tubing. ALWAYS use two wrenches for tightening the fittings!
Ah ok, so something like this is ok: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-ptfe-liquid-50g/5321j I am reading up on the different fittings and connections. From my understanding there seem to be: AN - Army Navy which have a 37 degree flare and a 1/8" hose would equal a -2 on the AN measurement. NPT - National Pipe Tapered have an entire tapered thread. So presumably, AN and NPT are not compatible? So I could not use the 90 degree elbow that I linked to above with the braided hose kit? It would be useful if the original gauge instructions had some information about the fittings and tube size but it does not. The only reference is that this is the replacement tube recommended by the gauge manufacturer: https://www.jegs.com/i/Bosch-Actron/885/FST7584/10002/-1 but that does not say if it is AN or NPT.
That kit you show is NPT to Compression @ 1/8". The easiest and best solution for what you need. The PTFE in the bottle is the correct stuff. Read up on anaerobic sealants. Ive been using that type for years with 99.9% success. Especially the gasket sealants! That stuff you can put a MICRO DROP on the compression ferrule seats and be ok. You really shouldnt need it there at all. AN fittings are in 1/16" increments. AN 8 is actually 8/16 or 1/2. AN20? Hmm; Thats 1-1/4". Dont get too misled by the hype; thats all hydraulic hose connections, which BTW, are usually almost ALWAYS in STEEL. The JEGs kit should do 100% of what you need. If you insist on the idiot light switch at the pump as well, use steel fittings. Brass on the copper side is OK, for a gage line connection. in my pic, notice a small vibration loop. Run the tube up inside the wire bundle above the passenger side valve cover. You could cut the wire connection off at the pump and pull the wire out just as easily, as long as there's not several wires taped together inside the loom. When you have a chance, go tour some HMS museum ships, especially submarines or aircraft. Notice the absolute absence of copper and brass fittings. A great way to spend a nice spring day cruising in your 'Riv! https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ACYBGNRkNQ2bjqiGYwqs6RfrIiRPGrJ6UA:1573992104741&source=hp&ei=qDbRXfeHKszetQXJrIXoDw&q=hms+museum+ships&oq=&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.35i362i39l10.0.0..2003...0.0..0.104.104.0j1......0......gws-wiz.....10.xF55skFZRdQ
Great! Thanks for the advice. I will probably just go with the Jegs kit in that case and reconnect up the light at a later point if I still want to. I guess I could use something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/62440-1-...016436?hash=item33b91cfb74:g:WPsAAOSwxupbIyQs No nipple needed and it is stainless steel. Sounds like a great day out! Next year the Buick is going to hopefully see a lot of car shows
You probably wont be able to turn that "T". Look for a "Street T" instead https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/62450-1-...noa=1&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1
Hey everybody, I just wanted to update you all. Today I went to this super helpful place called Think Automotive that is by Heathrow, so not too far from me. They took my old hose and made me up a custom length braided hose. It is absolutely beautiful and they were even able to fit 45 degree ends to make it a better fit. I have fitted it, using some PTFE paste only on the engine block connection and run the engine. Everything is working and no leaks!! Thanks so much for your help!
