Reviving the Skyhawk

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by GoldBoattail455, Nov 28, 2007.

  1. GoldBoattail455

    GoldBoattail455 462 -> TH400 -> Posi

    I figured I would make a thread to cover the progress on the Skyhawk. I've been surviving the cold in the garage and have been able to make quite a bit of progress.

    When I got the car none of the wiring was connected in the engine compartment. I don't know why. The radiator, radiator hold down and fan shroud are missing AND the a/c compressor and alternator were removed with most of the bolts missing.:Dou:

    I got a new battery last week and have kept it on a charger to help out in the cold weather. The first problem I found was a bad oil pressure sending unit, (these service manuals are such a nice tool to use). I've sorted through the harness and everything looks to be in good shape. I got the car running on monday. But it needed fuel dumped down the carb to start and would die out if the throttle was moved or after 15-20 seconds.

    I replaced the two-wire harness for the alternator because the old one was damaged. I steel wooled all the exposed wires and wire loomed them back up. Got a new throttle cable clip and bolted it down in its proper position. Adjusted the choke to its normal setting, not 180* around. I replaced the fuel filter in the carb, the old one was pretty bad. New one has a check valve too. Hooked throttle return spring back up. I pulled all the plugs to do a compression check and found two different style plugs and they were finger tight literally AND they were all gapped at .70 :Dou: I ordered a new brass radiator for it, $168. I'm ordering new upper and lower radiator hoses aswell, plugs, heater hoses, thermostat and a TVS sensor. Anyone know what EFE stands for and what it does? That was moved to where the TVS should be, TVS is mia. Once I get the TVS i will replace and reroute all the vacuum lines like I planned on today. All of those problems may have contributed to the engine not being able to start on its own and stay running.

    Also the throttle shaft on the carb is seeping fuel, and the main body of the carb is seeping fuel where it meets the base of the carb. Unless I can get a bushing for that carb I'll need a new one, right? Also how can I test the fuel pressure, I don't think the fuel pump is working to full capacity?:Do No: Thanks

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  2. NJBuickRacer

    NJBuickRacer I'd rather be racing...

    Rob, is that a Holley 2bbl? I may have an extra one for you if I didn't chuck it.
     
  3. Brad Conley

    Brad Conley RIP Staff Member

    It's a Rochester Dual Jet (at least from the factory). Rob, you can have that one rebuilt and part of the process is to bush the throttle shaft. The fuel pump is in the tank and either it works or it doesn't. I have no idea what the EFE is you are talking about. Sorry.

    Oil pressure sending unit is a common problem with this vintage V6. It also, as I'm sure you have found out, connects to the fuel pump. No oil pressure (or bad sender), no fuel. Keep a spare handy.
     
  4. GoldBoattail455

    GoldBoattail455 462 -> TH400 -> Posi

    No Artie, its the original Rochester 2 barrel 2GC.

    I already bought the rebuild kit and wanted to rebuild it myself, not send it to someone for tons of $$$ just to get it rebuilt and rebushed. Know of anyone who would rebush it?:Do No:

    Originally the fuel pump did not work. I followed the service manual and determined that it did work and that the oil pressure sending unit was bad. Replaced the oil pressure sending unit and it will now pump on its own. However when the engine is off and I move the throttle it is not a steady spray, there is air too.

    According to the service manual there should be two "switches" on the intake manifold. The TVS (thermo vacuum switch) is perpendicular to the engine and is attached in the front of the intake manifold on the passenger side, this has three vacuum ports. The top port goes to the HEI, middle to carb and bottom to vacuum source. The EFE or EGR-EFE (early fuel evaporation system) has five ports and is located on the top intake manifold on the driver's side. Top port goes to the aircleaner, 2nd goes to vacuum source, 3rd to EFE and out of the last two, one to the carb and one to the EGR. Still trying to track down the TVS switch.

    I wish I knew where this car was sold. I'm pretty sure its not a california emission equipped car but the previous owner sure is missing some things. No buildsheet yet but I haven't looked under the carpet or behind the door panels.

    I picked up a new brass radiator for $168. Ordered new upper and lower hoses (those were hard to get ahold of), bypass hose, heater hoses, AC Delco plugs, rubber fuel line and all the vacuum hoses. This is getting fun!:Brow: :grin:
     
  5. bignastyGS

    bignastyGS Maggot pilot

    Are you keeping the heap now??? lol..Time to order a 10 point cage now...
     
  6. cacmanjr

    cacmanjr Well-Known Member

    I think I have the shroud off of my radiator around here somewhere. I will look this weekend.
     
  7. Brad Conley

    Brad Conley RIP Staff Member

    EFE common name = vacuum tree.:)



    ...never knew what the proper name was...:grin:
     
  8. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    The only reason the carb is leaking fuel from the throttle shafts is because the carb is leaking fuel internally. most likely the fuel level is too high due to a float that is no longer floating, indicating that it needs a rebuild. along with the bad accelerator pump. fuel should never come in contact with the shaft, a worn shaft will only leak vacuum, but not a whole lot to worry about unless it is really bad. I would rebuild the carb, re-epoxy the holes on the bottom and not worry about the throttle shaft bushings. The rebuild is very easy, with your service manual it will be a breeze.
     
  9. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    "EFE" could be reffering to the EFE grid. A rudimentary emmision control. On older engines, there is a grid under the carb that gets warm under cold starts to heat up the carburetor. Its got a relay and a timer so it shuts off after a certain amount of time. If its not working right, the engine will hestitate when cold. Geez...havent heard that term used in quite a while.
     
  10. GoldBoattail455

    GoldBoattail455 462 -> TH400 -> Posi

    Jason, is right.....sorta. It actually has a butterfly valve in the end of the driver's side exhaust manifold and a diaphragm. A metal line runs to the intake to warm the incoming air.

    I guess I will rebuilt the carb in the house. I already have the new float and rebuild kit.

    Update, I have a very nice new brass radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostate and gasket, heater hoses and clamps, bypass hose, all vacuum lines, AC Delco spark plugs and new hardware for the accessories brackets waiting in my room. Hoping for a day above 40* so I can run the engine and clean out its cooling passages and the heater core before dropping in the new radiator. Not sure how well that will work, there doesnt look to be much corrosion where the coolant flows.
     
  11. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    EFE usually stands for "early fuel evaporation". The EFE grid is integral with the carb base gasket and is electrically operated.

    Im not sure your Skyhawk has one, just saying what EFE might be reffering to. They were common on the Rochester Vari-jet carbs.
     
  12. cacmanjr

    cacmanjr Well-Known Member

    I found the stock shroud off of my 77. Let me know if you need it.
     

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