So after my first two quarter mile passes, I've caught the disease. What else will help my combination? Cam, heads?, tires, and whatever else? Please let me know, but I'm not buying a tomahawk haha. Bottom line: What weaknesses do I need to address? Thank you Right lane in both runs What Im working with: 4600 lbs with me and half tank 3.42 posi Switch pitch wired to toggle switch Everyday Quadrajet-getting closer to dialed in 35* timing Shifting at 5000 when in drive/low, haven't manually shifted it yet Stock heads, cam, bottom end, intake (needs the heat crossover blocked) Stock manifolds 2.25" duals through magnaflow glass packs, relatively free flowing straight through 235/75/15 street tires front and rear 38 psi all the way around
Depends on how deep your pockets are. Bottom line is your pushing a 2.5 ton beast down the track. Unless you spend big $'s you wont get her much faster than where you re now. Plenty of little things that will shave a a 10th or 2 off the time. What I did was to build a track car and leave the Riv as a nice driver. I've got over 10K in my engine and can just barley crack the 13's in perfect conditions. Yardlys car has probably 3x's that into it and just gets into the 12's. The track car runs mid 10's
You're probably right Briz, but I will try my best with what I have. Where can I look at yardleys combo just to see what's going on?
A set of Stage 2 TA heads with a high lift low duration hyd. roller cam with about 9.25:1 compression. About .650" lift with 218* in. and 218* ex. duration @ .050" on a 113 LSA. The higher you can get the lift with a lower duration cam with heads that flow, the more the cylinder will fill for more low end power! You're trading duration for higher lift to get the valve into where it flows more air faster and it stays there longer because it will be there on both sides of the lobe. That is why you need a roller cam for this so the ramp can be more aggressive to get the higher lift with the lower duration @ .050". If you're starting out from scratch, the above with even more cubes would help get your car moving. A 482 BBB would be the ticket to stay with the factory block and crank. For an intake ideally would be a high rise dual plane intake like an air gap RPM if they made one for a BBB! If they make one for a BBM, they make the adapter plates to run those intakes on the BBB engines, so that would be the ticket.
Read this: http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/heading-to-the-strip-with-nitrous.300478/ It's not for everybody, but always an option.
To crack the 13s you need to add 75 hp to the motor or knock a bunch of weight off the car! More rear gear like 3.90s will help the ET a good amount , but no more then 2 tens, but there again if you do have traction issues now then with steeper rear gears you likely will and then have that to deal with! If you can get another 37 cfm thru the Intake and another 20 cfm out the Exh of each cylinder by means of modifying the heads ( which can be done ) with a bowl port job and bigger valves , then you have a shot at that 75 hp, other then that even a top notch pro rebuild will not get you that extra flywheel HP if your running that same Cam. What would help rebuild wise would be lighter pistons, wrist pins and Rods as this will allow the motor to rpm faster! Now let me say this, which is your BRACKET racing so put your efforts and funds into make the car more consistent as that's how you win win win in bracket racing! You'll have more to brag about by winning over a 11 second car then loosing and running 13s doing it!
For the money and casual occasional racing I think nitrous is the way to go. 100 shot plate system with an msd box and a timing retard controller. Took my black 72 skylark mule from 15s naturally aspirated to 12.9s in a hurry. The riv is heavier but you'll still see big gains.
I do like the idea of nitrous and it sounds like it does deliver great results. I just would rather have that extra 100 shot built into the engine so I don't even need to add the juice. I don't want to go piece by piece, because everything is linked together, but I have heard this: Scott Brown cam very similar to the 284-88H -25/30hp Block heat crossover-18/20 Worn timing chain might be robbing power everywhere. Calculated the HP and it came out at about 290 at the crank.
To be in the 12's consistently, you need to be at 500hp at the crank. I was at about 450, and if the weather was really good, I could squeak a 12. Yardley is in the same boat. I believe his hp is closer at 475. The 284-88H cam will not get you there.
Its a snowball. Trust me. One thing leads to another. You will sacrifice drivability for performance on nearly everything you do past a certain point. I sprayed the first race car with a 100 shot and gained 1/2 second. Went into the high 11's where it would only go mid 12's without. I'll be racing the Riv at the Nationals on Saturday and have it in the car show on Friday, driving it all over town between the track and hotels in between. Its 75% show car 20% driver and 5% race.
Did you mean 12s or 13s? I'm just looking for 13s, though even 425 hp would be very nice at this point in the game
My 430 is making 420 at the crank. She'll melt the tires. best of a 2.00 60' and 9.00 in the 1/8. Last yr in really bad air and high elevation during the Nationals she won the class with a scorching 15.00
The best way to build HP in these motors is head flow. Save up and buy a set of aluminum heads. You won't need to change anything else. Then the heads enhance anything else you do to the motor. You want 13's? That is the quickest way.
