What would be the RPM limit or a good shift point a fully balanced(stock crank, rods, and speed pro pistons)? did do the oil mods and running a hyd roller cam.
Anything past 6000 and you're starting to spin those rods pretty hard. I wouldn't go much more than 6000 with stock rods assuming they were correctly rebuilt with ARP hardware. Otherwise upgrade to forged rods and swing em till it stops making power.
stock crank. first time out with s/p had .030 hypers and stock rods. but balanced good. 7500 and the 10k b4 I hit the wall. still stock crank with 283 forged piston and roush nascar rods w/1.88 bearing. turning 65-7500 with a blower on it. engine wise there are no issues other than 'Kentucky windage' tuneing….because I don't care to do it to the nth degree.
Could of swore that you posted the 10K RPM after you installed the nascar rods with the forged sbc 283 pistons. The harmonics alone at 10K should of shattered the factory cast iron rods like glass at the opera when the fat lady hits the high note!
7500 and 10k were with the s/p I made in the Skyhawk chassis car. didn't go to nascar rods until the dragster. 10k scared me. thought that was the end of the 1st 350 build. still have rods and pistons laying around somewhere. the 762 mile(said on box) lentz rods are 6.380. try to find any now. if you went to the piston guys for 283 forged, they say they are special order($1200) and they made how many, buzzmillions, in the day. probably just lucky with this engines racing life. if it broke, that would be it for the continuous 350 project and I would fade away into the sunset.
Yeah, I don't get that. Why are forged pistons ALWAYS special order? You know they made bunches of them, so why? Sounds like a scam to me. Jim
Its for a Buick V8 If you use the pistons in a Chevy V8, they're "in stock" Use the same ones in a Buick V8, "special order" Those forged 283 piston are probably 10 bucks a piece for a Chevy V8 "Oh, your using these in a Buick V8? They're 150 bucks each!"
You probably don't want to go to a 3.875" bore diameter with a sbb 300 that has a factory bore of 3.750" unless the block is thoroughly sonic tested to go +.125" larger! Not saying it can't, just saying to make sure.
The question is where should you shift ? With the port area of stock heads and or Intake Manifolds being the choke point and not so much the Cam I can't see a need for shifting at more then 6000! Remember any car regardless of if it makes 220 hp or 2200 hp will accelerate that fastest when the revs are kept in a rpm spread where the most amount of average power is made, and in terms of a motor like in this post that's well less then 5500 rpm!
He has already been shifting up to 6200 he has enough cam to do it and has the SP3. Mine was dynode to 6400 and made power from 5900 to 6200 with a TA 510 cam. With this SP3 and the 510 cam 6200 would be a piece of cake. I would shift his car at 5900, engine is all balanced so it should be able to do it plus he has a roller cam and SP3. I don't shift past 6 grand either just to keep the rods safe 6200 max, might be why it has lasted this long (25 years)
Both cams I have used now The TA 510 cam with 565 lift and 255-265 at.050 dur at 110 lsa The other cam currently in is a Lunati 502-507 lift and 230-245 dur. at 116 lsa Both these cams did not make TQ until the engine got past 4500 both made their numbers at 4900 rpm and both made their HP past 5500 rpm. 1st one TA 510 cam, 2nd one Lunati cam put out by the GS Extra mag. So see these engines with a cam in it does not get going till after 3500 rpm This engine did the same thing when I had the 268 Comp Cam in the engine with ALL stock internals and with that I used to shift at 5500 rpm
