Yes, my scenario is alternative to citric acid. In case you coat immediately after rinsing then you tend to encapsulate the problem. There will be still some active H3O+ molecules left on the surface and they are not going to stop doing their job, regardless of coated by primer or paint.
Citric acid is also used in bath bombs that seem to be all the rage with teenage girls. Much cheaper to make at home. Baking soda, citric acid, Epsom salt, a little smelly stuff and you're there. Maybe I should throw some rusty parts in the tub next time she uses one.
Bubbly, smells good, good for the skin, trendy for their IG photo's. For my daughter, she thinks it helps recovery after intense physical activity along with the other benefits..
This started out simple but got too "sciency" for me. Who is going to have 25% salt acid and 1% of thiocarbamide/thiourea? For me personally it's just easier to media blast and use an etching metal prep or phosphoric acid, although that's not even necessary if painting right away...and be done. Of course, if you don't have a blast cabinet, you gotta go chemical.
I put an old Kent Moore tool in there the other night. I will post before/after of that tonight or tomorrow NZ time. I am glad this info may help some of you with your parts and your wallet!
I first had to read what sugar soap is, don't now it here in Germany, but after consulting wikipedia: Yep, should do it.
None of these seem as effective as evapo . But I usually put it in 110F Texas sun . Also evapo has no ill effects on parts with one exception . Small springs like from a hood latch .
For those of us with iron in their well water, Citric Acid is also good for flushing out the iron in the water softener and the rust stains in dish washers/wash machines/sinks/showers
No ill effects with citric acid either. Try it in the sun like you said. I bet it works as well as evaporust. One advantage of evapo is the inclusion of a degreaser in the solution. No advantage though if parts are cleaned well.
I've used white vinegar that I get a Sam's for a few bucks for 2 gallons many times in the past. It isn't as fast as Evaporust but it does a very good job over time. Definitely in my price range. I'll have to look into the citric acid.
Spoke w/Evaporust rep at Charlotte AutoFest. Remarked that vinegar would remove rust. He agreed. Went on to say that vinegar could also etch/eat the "good" metal.
By definition, any acid is chemically reactive. It has to be or might as well be inert. Evaporust must also have some reactive action or it wouldn't work. Maybe if you leave it in there for a month but overnight it seems to clean up rusted bolts and such pretty nicely. It is a very weak acid as evidenced by putting your bare hand in it and losing no fingers or even skin. You might find a break in the skin and it will sting but you won't have any permanent damage.
Rust is iron oxide. Steel and cast iron are mostly iron in a matrix of other elements. I would think you want something that focus(s) on iron oxide and has less ability to pull the iron from the matrix of steel and cast iron and the other elments. Reps are similar to politicians and bosses. They explain it in the best light for them.
Evapo rust works by a process called chelation. So does citric acid. The iron oxide is targeted. Citric acid is used in industry for this, hence my thinking that it is the primary ingredient in evapo rust. As I said previously, evapo rust also contains a detergent/degreaser. I haven't tried to combine anything with my solution. Cleaning well before is my method.
