ScareBird Rear Disc Brakes - ACE Skylark

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by knucklebusted, Nov 26, 2019.

  1. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

  2. RoadDawg

    RoadDawg Well-Known Member

    Following.
     
  3. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    Me2...JIM
     
  4. Buicksky

    Buicksky Silver Level contributor

    Interesting , not sure how I feel about this setup...
     
  5. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    $205 plus shipping , I assume. Doesn't require turning the axle shafts down to fit in rotor. I imagine you could upgrade the caliper choice...use Wilwoods? You buy calipers, rotors , and pads, plus some additional hardware, such as caliper bolts, banjo bolts etc. JIM
     
  6. Electra man

    Electra man Older and Slower

    My 98 grand cherokee had this type of system. Adequate as a parking brake useless as an emergency brake.
     
  7. 71GS455

    71GS455 Best Package Wins!

    They've been around for quite a long time. Never used them, but it seems like a pretty good concept to upgrade to disk if you aren't looking to autocross or road course a car that came with drums.
     
  8. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I do know you need longer studs to be safe. Here's the install docs they sent to me when I enquired about them. I think these rotors are 10.5 rotor where the Right Stuff kits use an 11" rotor. They think they will work with Buick 15x7 wheels but do not know for sure. They told me they work with Pontiac steel wheels.

    GM “A”, “F”, and “X” Rear Disc Brake

    1. Block front wheels and crack lug nuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of car and support safely with jackstands. Remove wheels. Remove drums from axles.
    2. If you vehicle is equipped with “C” clip axle retainers, crack loose rear differential cover and drain into pan. Remove center pin retaining bolt, then remove center pin and C-clips. Pull out axle shafts. If your car has bolt in axles, remove bolts, attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts. Install ¼” longer studs in axle flange.
    3. Disconnect hydraulic lines from rear wheel slave cylinder. Remove brake backing plate bolts and remove as an assembly. Retain attaching bolts if in good shape. Most brake lines will have a bubble flare where it enters the drum slave cylinder. This needs to be changed to an inverted flare with a proper 3/8” fitting. We suggest replacing with new lines; NAPA and others sell alloy lines that bend easily.
    4. Clean off axle housing flanges. Install new seals in housing (C-clip axles only). Install disc brake backing plates. Each plate is marked as to what it is and where it goes:
      • ACE-D50P - Passenger side, A, F or X body
      • ACE-D50A - Driver side, A body or F/X with trailing shocks
      • ACE-D50F = Driver side, F/X body with staggered shocks
      • Essentially, the F/X with staggered shocks will have the calipers mounted forward on the driver's side and trailing on the passenger, while the A bodys and non-staggered F/X will have both calipers mounted forward. The hose tabs and e-brake levers are mounted inboard in all cases.
    5. If car has bolt-in axles, install axles with plates and tighten. Reuse special bolts if possible as they have a short shank that locates the bracket more solidly.
    6. Install C-clip axles in housing; reinstall c-clips, center pin and retaining bolt. Note the amount of play given by the C-clip. If in excess of 0.025” you can replace the clip with thicker units offered by various vendors. If the play is excessive, you will get caliper “knockback” - where the axle sliding side to side will compress the caliper piston somewhat and lead to a delay of brake application and a clunking noise. Replace cover with new gasket and refill differential with proper lube to car specs. Wash hands and dry.
    7. Install rotors in place with a pair of lug nuts. Parking brake “shoe” is adjusted by an Allen set screw next to the parking brake lever. Tighten till snug, then back off ½ turn. Rotor should turn with minimal drag. Wipe down with lacquer thinner or other cleaner. Install caliper hardware into calipers. Using silicone grease, lube brake pads at wear points and install into calipers. Install calipers onto rotor and bracket with bleed screws facing up. Coat threads of caliper bolts with anti-seize and slide in caliper, tighten to 35 ft-lbs.
    8. Disconnect front end of wheel parking cable from intermediate cable at connector. Clip off end ferrule of parking brake cable at caliper. Remove spring. Attach split ferrule on end of cable with approx. 1/4” cable sticking out then fray that remnant. Insert cable housing into bracket on backing plate then thread into parking brake lever. Reconnect cable at forward end.
    9. Install new hardlines or carefully bend existing hard brake line to intercept bracket. Attach flexible brake hose to hard line loosely, then attach with clip, then tighten. Existing hardline has a bubble flare; you will need an inverse double flare. Either reflare, use new line, or an adapter from Inline Tube. Attach other end of flexible hose to caliper with new copper crush washers.
    10. Once you get the e-brake setup done, then you can gravity bleed the system, reattach the wheels, etc. and tidy up.

    Parts List

    1998-2005 Chevy Blazer 2WD rear rotor:
    Centric 121.66039
    Bendix PRT5181
    AC Delco 18A876A
    Raybestos 56725R
    Wagner BD125577
    NAPA NB4886725

    1980-84 Chevy Citation front calipers:
    note that staggered shock setups will use 2 left calipers
    Make Left Right
    NAPA SE4682 SE4681
    Cardone 184131 184130
    Wagner CR100794 CR100795
    Raybestos FRC4137 FRC4138
    AC Delco 18FR637 18FR638
    Centric 14262064 14262043

    Flex hoses – use a SAE/Metric piece (1979-81 Camaro front).

    Other hardware, such as pads, pins, sleeves and such match up with the caliper application.

    Kit components: ACE Brackets, Parking shoes (2), (4) Hose locks, (2) Banjo metric bolts
     

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