Specifically wax & wheel and possibly rubbing compound. I have what appears to be somewhat heavy oxidation spots on my hood in the area between the scoops and the cowl. The rest of the paint is fairly decent and I think will clean up nice without any compound. The paint was redone by previous owner back 2004 ish. I'd say it was a middle of the road as far as quality goes. Panels were not removed. Some over spray here and there. I just want to get it looking a bit nicer. It's not a show car, just a driver. With all the products out there, where do I start? I did the hand in plastic bag thing and it felt like it could use a clay bar job before anything. What products are people using? Would it be worth it to take in to a professional shop?
It's really hard to get a good pic showing the problem area. I have a ton of pics where it doesn't even show at all. I have this for now, I'll try to get something better and post it when I can.
I'd just do a good 3 stage, cut with a cleaning compound, next polishing compound, then glaze coat or sealant. There are more modern sealants and treatments but I prefer this approach. Just don't overdo it with your cutting & polishing...
What's the deal with these new ceramic coatings? From what I read, they chemically bond to your paint and are not easily removable without using abrasives, but last much longer than just wax. Has anyone done this / had this done? Something to stay away from or go for it?
Do you know if it was it clearcoated? Maybe getting worn thin from too much buffing in that area? You might want to be careful how heavily you apply anything.
It had a repaint in 2005. I'm assuming with clearcoat. From the condition I bought it, I would also assume the previous owner did nothing but drive it. I have pics of it parked at his house under pine trees in the summer, and a foot of snow on it in the winter. I'm definitely no paint expert but it looks like oxidation just in that area. I see you're in my area. Think you could swing by one day and take a look?
Check out the "Griot's Garage" website. Foam pad on a DA. Use the lightest/ least abrasive compound first. Like Griot's white polishing compound. With a foam pad on a DA, you can burn the paint as the pad doesn't build up any heat.
I bought meguiar’s mt300 buffer kit for my Charger. The goal was to restore the original paint as best as possible. Best $200 I ever spent. Probably overkill for what you need, but the result speak for itself
. Sure Kevin, Busy time (taxes) now but pm me your address and I'll shoot by. My younger brother that died was the paint guy. He painted my GS in 1980, still holding it's own. Acrylic enamel with an added gloss enhancer. Never been rubbed, right out of gun. Used to use this Mirror Glaze on my older Bros 69 vette at the Cobo Autorama years ago. It's just a hand application sealer, no wax. Takes out fine scratches, etc. Used this clay bar kit on my Z06 that sat outside for 10 months with 100 miles on it. Yep it was covered with snow too because the condo assoc. wouldn't let the guy cover (store) it in driveway. Neat story I'll have to tell you abt. Took off sap, bird droppings, hump bumpy stuff, etc.
Something that maybe we should start a post on,but where do you figure anyone's starting point. Assuming there is still a decent amount of clear or single stage color....for starters we need to confirm that one knows HOW to polish or buff. You burn your finish by process not accident. If you are looking down at your polish wheeel,notice that is probably is spinning clockwise. So if you were to hit that 3 o'clock position on the upper fender edge....you are trying to burn it. If you were using the 9 o'clock side of the polisher facing that same fender edge....you are cutting toward the edge with your compound. This applies to any surface you are wheeling. It is EXACTLY how paint gets cut away rather than polished smooth. So before you put the polisher to the surface....make sure you are holding the wheel in the right position. I have seen a lot of time wasted when some good old 3m super duty with a wool pad would have saved a lot of elbow grease IF you do not use it correctly,you will burn the finish.
And that's exactly what I don't want to have happen. I guess I'm looking for a polishing for dummies guide! Jason said (above) to use a foam pad so it doesn't build up too much heat. That's probably more my speed and experience level with a wheel.
I would start with a clay bar for the whole car. I personally use Adams Polishes. I love their products and they have very good videos on what to do. Just my 2 cents.
Well, I decided to have it done instead of trying to correct it myself. I found a local place that does nice work for a price I could live with. When I got in the building under the florescent lights, it was much worse than it looked out in the sunlight. There was a ton of oxidation, bird crap spots, and a general haze over the whole car. The process included an initial wash Then emulsify foam that loosens embedded dirt, grime , tar, bird crap etc... Then wash again Clay bar Blow dry Heavy/medium compound Light compound/ polish Then a final polish Here's a video of the hood showing the haze/oxidation on the passenger side, and just the first compound application on the driver side. Watch the lights: Here's couple pics after its done. I'm very happy with the depth of finish. I don't think I could have achieved this myself. Having never wheeled out a car, I wasn't confident enough that I wouldn't burn through the paint.
Paid $250 he was running a 20% off exterior detail promotion so normally $300 He did a lot of work for $250. Ended up being well over 7 hours.
