Yep. I have had several 300/St300 Switch Pitch cars. And they got hot. The 1964 Le Sabre was the worst at getting too hot in the summer in stop and go (Houston's big circular parking lot AKA the 610) back in 19 and 76. Those little square, two row downflows did not help things.
My .030 over 425 has the 091 cam and does not overheat even on the hottest SW Florida days. I took Doc's advice and implemented the railroad philosophy. Cram in the biggest radiator that will fit and forgeddabout temperature issues. My '82 Chevy pickup has the 6.2 Diesel radiator (the truck was originally a Diesel) that I bought new. With a factory-type viscous fan and the factory shroud overheating is a non-issue.
It's Halloween, so revive the Zombie thread. Not long after posting, I was dissatisfied with the cooling, and decided to make a change. I am not a fan of the electric fan(s) on classics, for several reasons, however, I am old and want to enjoy driving the car, not working to solve problems (which I have done my whole life for everyone else, so they can enjoy life). I figured the GS radiator could have been re-cored, and that may have helped, but the time, effort and cost, vs buying a new radiator and trying electric fans might be money well spent. So, I bought a US Radiator Optima Flow, 4 row, copper/brass radiator and Spal Dual 12" 3170 CFM fans mounted in a shroud. The shroud allows nearly 100% full shrouding so almost zero loss of airflow as it matches the radiator core almost perfectly. (pulling, not pushing) The car on 100 degree day, in hot traffic, will idle at 162*F (160* stat). Normal temp in all driving conditions is about 165-195, and tends to be around 170 on highway, at 2800 RPM (where I normally drive highway with OD, and the car "feels happy".) The car has never gotten hot. Highest temp ever was about 200* after a long drive, and stopped for gas, then started and got in heavy traffic for about 10 minutes, but the 200* started dropping and within five to ten minutes was back down to 165*. (with fans on at idle, it seems to pull the highest cooling and the engine has nearly zero load.) I was so pleased with the setup, I duplicated it on my '68, and it operates about the same way. Yes, I could have gone with aluminum radiator, but this is less obvious in appearances, and it functions well. Just some info for those that might have cooling issues, or doing a build and wanting some other ideas. I use the EFI to control one fan, and a thermal switch (on intake) to turn on the second fan for the '64, and the EFI and manual switch on the '68. (will install a thermal switch eventually).
