Hey guys, as some of you know I have swapped my dynaflow and torque tube for an st400 and a driveshaft. Funny thing is, the factory didn't leave directions for this in the glove box! I am at a loss for how I set up any downshift linkage to my fresh Edelbrock AVS2 carb. As it is I have to figure out how to link up the factory column shift lever to the new trans. And I simply lack the general experience to know how it all typically works from wrote memory. So...can anyone share some pictures of factory set ups from 64 to 66 cars? Both the carb linkage for the kickdown lever and the components attached to the trans detent lever. Also welcome any general suggestions.
Attached are some pictures of the shift down/high stall converter switch for the ST300 of a 65 Gran Sport Skylark. The ST300 and ST400 used the same transmission switches in 65. The switch turns on high stall at about 3/4 throttle and the downshift engages at almost full throttle. Also attached are pictures of the micro switch on the throttle rod that engages high stall at idle or no throttle conditions. This prevents creeping in gear at stoplights etc. It switches to low stall once there is some throttle (any step on the gas). HTH - Cheryl
Terrific! That gets me the switch pitch switch Now what I need is the kickdown rod up top and down underneath to see how that is set up
Heres a pic or the First Nailhead I had in my '50 Sedan Delivery. The plug with two wires on the front of the switch worked the switch pitch solenoid, the two wires on the rear of the switch (hidden) worked the kickdown solenoid. PA132055 by Lobucrod posted Apr 8, 2020 at 4:17 PM
Yes its behind a 364 nail. I put a longer tail housing on it so the slip yolk U joint would be closer to the pivot point of my rear suspension.
Wow nice work, Coming right along! Can you do me a favor and get rid of those concrete cinder blocks? The are not structurally sound for that type use. I would hate to see something happen. I saw the jack stands but cinder block can be dangerous. Ok, enough said by me...
Appreciate your safety concerns Mr White! I had to keep the suspension loaded to accomplish this. Jack stands were positioned no more than a quarter inch below sound chassis structure should a block give way.
Well lets see. I don’t think I ever specifically photographed the trans crossmember (is that what you mean?). Are you contemplating a dynaflow swap? Whaddaya know? I had part of the modified crossmember captured as an image. I cut an amount out equal to the change in width from original position to new spot and added a slotted plate to accommodate the later trans mount.
Yes, I was asking about the crossmember. What I was wondering was whether you modified the original unit or made an all new one. It sounds like you were able to get away with modifying the original piece. That would definitely simplify things. Yes, I'm debating about a swap. But honestly, it's pretty low on my list of priorities. My next big job will be an engine rebuild. I'm thinking that me the time to make decision about whether or not I want to keep the Dynaflow.
I think the dynaflow will hold back the new motor. I guess its all relative, but the trans swap definitely gives more “drivability”
Probably so. That's always an issue when you improve one area of a system. I'm just trying to balance the gain versus the trouble. The Dynaflow is not a terrible transmission in the context of the current engine. Thanks for the pictures.
So I'm picking up an ST400 this Sunday. Did you ever get your shift linkage sorted out? What about the shift quadrant on the steering column? I imagine you could just print a new one. Last of all, one more crossmember question. Did you relocate the crossmember as well as modify it. Or were you able to put the crossmember back in its original spot and only modify where the trans locates? Thanks, Dan
Hi Dan, I had to modify and relocate the crossmember. Not difficult...just takes time. The prindle is still the 1960 pattern but I just use the lever as is. Well, I set up the lever for the ST400 in the original P spot, and feel for the gears. Any sort of detent there might be in the column does not match up with the detents in the 400 trans. Not so sure how to remedy that and I dont want to run an aftermarket floor shifter (like a Gennie). Measure twice and cut once with that crossmember!!!! I’d be happy to answer any question you might have by PM - could even pass along my cell number.
Thanks for that. I'll touch base via PM when the time comes. I'm going to tackle a refresh on the trans next week. The plan is to install it as a unit when I pull/rebuild the engine. Also, still trying to source a st300 Torque converter. Good times.
I used a microswitch and made a bracket using a picture of the edelbrock microswitch as reference. This is only for my kickdown and it's mounted on an edelbrock performer 750. Edelbrock no longer makes the bracket and the place I ordered from was unable to fulfill my order. That's why I ended up 3d printing it at home.
Hey that’s pretty slick there! Modern manufacturing meets old school car. Nice job I used a Lokar kickdown switch - its a cable at the carb and at mountable box containing a micro switch signals the trans. Very adjustable!