I'm planning to swap my 350 to a 455, and I'm always on the lookout for a good deal since my budget is on the lower side, about $3000. Option 1: https://albany.craigslist.org/pts/d/buick-engine-and-transmission/6496005862.html $600 seems pretty cheap, and I think I could negotiate with cash in hand. Do you guys think it's this worth the buy, or will the engine rebuild be a hassle and cost too much in the end? Or, should I just find a running 455 engine and transmission from a v8buick member and just drop it in? Option 2: https://southjersey.craigslist.org/pts/d/buick-455-block-crank-pistons/6509274763.html Or should I buy this machined block and slowly build it? All input is greatly appreciated. I'm sorry if im posting in the wrong section!
I would probably go with the 70 , mainly because it's complete which will save you lots of effort in rounding up the little stuff, like oil pan, timing cover (if it's still good) flexplate etc. You can probably put some Marvel mystery , seafoam etc in the bores and break it free and it will run. The 70 block will need a few mods if built nothing expensive or major just the oil mods . Plus you are getting a th400 short tail trans, probably a BA code. I'd offer $450
I would also definitely go for the complete engine/trans. There are all those little bolts, fittings, brackets, etc that it looks like you'll get with the 1970 engine. I also have an engine that I was thinking of selling. It's a 1975/76 blue block. The blocks are supposed to be slightly stronger, but the heads are only good for the bottom of a lake. But complete and was taken out of a running Electra if memory serves me right. PM me if you might be interested. I'm located in Wadsworth, OH.
Thank you for putting it into a better perspective for me. I’m gonna give the dude a call. Also, what is the significance behind a BA code or even a short tail transmission?
You’re right, I completely forgot about the small parts that go along with the assembly. And thank you for the offer, but it’s just too far of a trip, so I’m gonna have to pass. Thank you again for the input, I do appreciate it.
Hi.. I'm not as up on Buick 455 core vs. runner prices, but one thing I would caution you on is buying a frozen engine with obvious signs of significant external corrosion like that one has. If that engine sat outside in the weather or other horrible/wet conditions for years or decades, it could be a corroded nightmare inside as well, which could mean some or possibly even all of the key parts will be toast. I've seen that happen before. You won't know what that engine's story is until you open it up, just be aware that without knowing for sure what it looks like inside, you are taking a certain amount of chance. Just keep that in mind, and use that knowledge accordingly when making an offer on it. Unless that engine or trans has a particularly sought after pedigree in Buick land, I wouldn't pay $600 for it without knowing why it's seized. The bracketry, carb, trans and other parts theoretically all have some value if you need them or can sell them on, but only you can put a monetary value on how much all that is worth to you.
My father was telling me the exact same thing, but sometimes I like to convince myself otherwise lol. It does sound like a nightmare waiting to happen, so I honestly feel like I should pass on the offer, but maybe snag up the transmission. Other than that, is it common for board members to sell running engines? Cause if so, I’ll go that route
Heh.. yeah, I tell everyone to set emotions aside when making decisions involving money, and just use logic and common sense. I'm new around here to this forum, so I really don't know what the buying and selling scene is like here. If it were me, I'd look at that engine/tranny combo this way: I'd assume the worst and only pay a price that I wouldn't be upset about if it turns out the long block is trashed beyond practical usability. That way you really can't lose, and could very well win if it turns out to be ok. I've gotten lucky on some, not so much on others. I can't help but remember the '68 Lincoln 460 I picked up some years ago that was unbelievably rusted and corroded inside, to the point where it was nearly impossible to even disassemble it. Almost nothing ended up being usable, including the block. The original 400M that was in a truck I just started working on was even worse off. Completely seized, 3 plugs looked like the Titanic when I pulled them, and the block and both heads were badly cracked beyond repair. Looking at the rust in the intake and head ports, I think at one point it was full of water and froze up in winter. So.. if you decide to go check it out, look it over carefully. Pull the valve covers at the least, look down the carb, pull the plugs and look into the cylinders with a good light. Also look carefully at the oil pan and block skirts. I once went to go check out a supposedly running Pontiac 400, but behind the starter was a sharp dent in the oil pan, from the inside, and it was slightly pierced at the tip of the dent. Upon turning the engine over by hand, not only did the seller get nervous about that, but there was an obvious clunk at the same spot in every rotation. Needless to say, I didn't buy it. So just be careful, and do your due diligence. I don't mean to be an alarmist or scare mongerer, just a realist that sees a questionable engine that could just as easily go either way.
You’re completely right. Best way to go about it is to set aside the emotions and prepare for the worst. Thanks for sharing some of your experiences. I can only imagine the look on that guys face and how he was sweating bullets when you started turning over the engine lol.
Yep. At the same time, don't talk yourself out of what could be a good deal either out of pure fear, just use common sense. If that engine turned over by hand and wasn't so corroded on the outside, I'd personally feel much more confident. You're always taking a certain amount of gamble on a used engine sitting on the floor, but you really have to be careful when things start stacking up like being seized and super corroded externally. And of course, never trust what some random craigslist seller says - they're trying to make a sale, so they can and will say anything. A friend once referred me to someone he knew offhand who was selling a Pontiac "Ram Air IV" 400 for $500, supposedly a rough runner that needed a rebuild. Well hell, any one part of that engine is worth $500, so of course I'm going to check it out and bring cash! Only one slight problem.. one quick look at the numbers showed that it was in fact a standard 350 with '70s 6X-4 heads - nothing even remotely special, and most definitely NOT a RA IV. I pushed him on that and asked him why he'd outright lie about it, and he just blabbled off some nonsense about how he doesn't really know Pontiacs, but his buddy's bro who is a Chevy guy took one look at it and said that's what it was. Stupid. I ended up buying it for $100 because the heads were still useful, but case in point, you've always got to look at the numbers as well. Don't just trust the seller and the air cleaner as indicators of what the engine actually is. That setup is probably still pretty easily worth $300 or so as a core, being that a short shaft TH400 is always worth something as a core, plus that bracket setup, exhaust, distributor, air cleaner, carb, etc etc are all worth something to somebody. Even in a worst case scenario where you sell everything off to get your money back, you'd still very likely come out ahead if you paid about $300. That's assuming you don't mind the hassle of selling stuff and finding the right buyers for it all. There's always someone out there who is looking for correct numbered engine parts and such. But in a best case scenario, you get a standard bore block that is totally rebuildable as well, so it's probably worth taking a gamble on for $300 or so.
