Well....... This is a first for me........ What a time it was getting it there. The 4 front body bolts were just about friggin impossible.... I didn't know the nuts were not "captive nuts" ( or that they were even nuts) ou: Overall it took about 3-4 hours doing it alone . Finally had a "Spotter" help me out when the Lark got Skyjacked
Skyjackin'........... Tired , yes.... Frustrated ..... You Betcha' .......... Great Lookin' Car when done........ Priceless ! Thanks, Steve
Frame Offs'......... Well it certainly was a job . Specman..... Hope you have some help with those front frame bolts ,they ARE a biotch from start to finish . 1" I believe . I was in a Fog when I got those out and dodging "Skeeters" so lets just say it Ain't no fun. Steve
My Method.......... Hey Len , Steve here .Here is what I did to get it apart...... Key Equipment :Hopefully a compressor and a great impact gun for the 4 front frame bolts at the cowl ( the bolts and nuts are not captive nuts and will spin so you will also need a 1" open end and may have to massage the outer opening to get a wrench in there .NOTE: Those 4 nuts are lock nuts and are extremely tight all the way off ;hence Air Gun . Cherry Picker 15-20' 5/16" Chain with hooks . 2" x 4" and something to brace the 2x4/ clip at the firewall. (very important -keeps clip from flopping and possibly buckling ) , this is also your rear lift point . ! I used an old piece of 2" angle steel . I cut the steel about 4-5" longer than the width of the brackets that bolt the clip to the firewall , centerlined it and drilled 2- 3/8" holes for bolts to go thru the steel and the holes on the clip where they mount to the firewall . After drilling the steel I cut the 2x4 about 6" shorter than the span between the holes for the steel , drill the steel in 5 places with a 1/8" drill (3 holes on the front of the steel angle and 2 holes on top and sank 5 ea. sheetrock screws to attach the 2x to the angle Front Clip : Remove front bumper/ALL brackets, hood,hinges,rad,wiring ,brake booster (with booster in place you won't be able to get the brace you build into position .Unbolt front clip @ lower fenders , up on the cowl , near the roof pillars , firewall , and front frame mounts . Grab the clip at the upper core support lift up on the clip sharply and pull it towards the front (this gets the clip away from the firewall so you can get the brace on) . After the brace is on make an "X" sling with the chain wide as possible at the brace and around the upper core support get your Cherrypicker and extend the boom as far as it will go ,put the Slingchain in the hook adjust it as good as possible for balance and have at it . Len as I said ; I did this alone, if you have a couple of buddies that can help it's easier than what I've typed here : 2 buddies at the fenderwells ,you at the core support , all three of you lift the clip a few inches come forward to clear the cowl , have whoever is on either side lift the clip at the rear enough to clear the wheels and walk it off the car . Thats' why it took 4 hours to do this . As far as the body I believe ther are 8 total bolts counting the 4 at the front . I lifted the body with the chain at the front first going thru the body bolt area with the chain leaving as little slack as possible ( put something soft over the boom between the firewall to prevent damage to the firewall and, as your lifting pull the cherrypicker away from the firewall as you're going up . I had some blocks and put the jack stands on them to get the body to clear the wheels . At the rear I used my chain and ran the body bolts thru the chain and into the rear (you'll need to open the links up a bit yo do this . (vicegrips to hold the link and a hammer and something to rest the chain on and slap the end of the link to get it to open ) . Leave enough slack in the chain to get a couple of 4x4's between the chain and the body ,this will keep the chain from tearing up the trunk area get the picker there and lift and support the body . Actually it's pretty easy just be VERY CAUTIOUS/CAREFULL/SAFE/SOBER !!!!!!!! My picks are too big for the site if you like I could email pics to you . Good luck and be carefull ! This could be deadly if you don't pay attention. Steve
Addition to my last post... Len, I left out a few things . You also need to pull the park brake cable ... Pull back the carpet (if it's still there) get a small hose clamp (fuel line sized) disconnect the cable from the foot brake mechanism after you've disconnected it from under the car and have some slack in the cable. Then put the hose clamp over the little magic fingers of the cable retainer where it comes thru the floor about 1/4-1/2" up and tighten it . then go outside and pry the cable thru the floor . Remove the fuel / return lines , cut the hoses ( you'll be replacing all the "soft " lines .... RIGHT? ) Then make sure the lines are not attached to the body . If you feel the need drop the tank .(Body will clear the chassis with tank in place. ) Also be sure that your speedo cable is out of the little clip just on the underside of the body near the P brake cable. Steve
Steve; Thanks for your info. Everything has been removed from the car, except the body. I am repairing the floor pans first to keep everything tight. I am hoping to have the entire interior primed by the end of the month so I won't have to screw around with any body work after the frame is done. I'll keep you posted. Len
