I believe you would need a spacer since the carrier breaks are 2.56 / 2.73-2.93 / 3.23-3.42 / 3.64 and up http://jdrace.com/diff_id/10bBOP_Buick.htm This link explains why, https://www.crawlpedia.com/thick_gears.htm
I sell New carriers for the 2.73 AND 293 RATIO. cARRIER BREAKS ARE AS FOLLOWS ON 8.25 Buick 1968 -1970 2.56 (ALL BY ITS SELF) 2.73 2.93 ratios 3.23 3.42 ratios 3.64 - 4.78 ratios
10 bolt Chevy 12 bolt Chevy is the same way... ALL GM rears have carrier breaks. 8.5 2.412.56 2 series 2.73 - 5.57 3 series 12 bolt Chevy 2.56 - 2.73 3.07-3.73 3.90 -6.14 10 bolt Chevy 2.56-2.73 3.08 -5.13 Pontiac 8.2 2.56-2.78 2.93-3.23 3.36-5.14 12 olds 2.56-2.78 3.08-3.23 3.42-5.00 .....and so one...
I've been googling about that spacer but I haven't found information about that spacers, would be great having a 2.56s carrier and just use the spacer for lower gears
Yeah, not sure about availability for the 68-70 Buick 8.2. I was hoping Monzaz would have addressed that when he just looked in here.. He would be the guy to know.
the thickness is custom... You can try the 8.5 spacer but they are getting expensive too 65-80 dollars ...DO NOT forget the bolts YOU MUST have long ring gear bolts with the ring gear spacer.
Well so the spacer idea is discarded because could be really complex start messing with tolerances adapting the 8.5 spacer on the 8.2 I just opened a threat looking for the 2.93s Carrier Just a question for curiosity in case of not find the carrier: How hard is to swap a Buick 8.2 for a chevy 10 or 12 bolts? Will require modifications or just pull the Buick out and push the Chevy in?
64-72A body rears bolt right in. There are differences in the rear U-joint, minor width differences, and drive shaft length. That's about it. Buick rears are stronger though. I'd look for an 8.5 10 bolt.
The 8.5” spacers have the correct bolt pattern and inside diameter. It “might” work if you are jumping two series. The difference between one series to the next is less than the thickness of those spacers,which is .200” If you used one with a 2:56 carrier,for the 2:93 gears,you will be back in the same situation as trying to use your 3:42 carrier.
I have not been able to remove one without destroying it. My rear no longer has it,so I had to compensate with a thicker pinion shim because the race will seat a tad deeper into the housing. If your original race is in excellent condition,you could leave it alone,but most of us like to change every single bearing & race in there.
I agree, Just one of those have to replace item... Even with the smallest tip drift from the back side it dents up the shim and distorts the lip enough that I do not trust it. Sorry Just measure it and put a shim under the pinion or back under the race. Jim J D
well so yesterday I had the custom made spacer done and the 2.93s installed on the 2.56s carrier (thanks to @BrianTrick) The final spacer thickness was 0.110" Just like all of you guys said here're the sizes differences between my 3.42s carrier and the 2.56s And this is how the height looks like with the spacer in place My final Backlash is about 0.011" and the gears turns really easy even after torqued all bolts. Sadly on the next image the pattern isn't very clear but for me is like the pinion could be a bit more deeper but can be fine that way I'm going to take a better picture of the pattern in the afternoon and also I'm going to picture the coast pattern
yep if you add another .110 you should be close to the 3.23 3.42 carrier then. Should work... I would run the pattern all the way around to be sure there is no run out on the spacer plate to the gear ... Pattern should stay in the same area around the gear if it moves around toe to heel or pattern gets goofy and comes back then you have issues. Jim
It’s cool that you can get that spacer made there. I can’t get anything made here. I took one and sent it all the way to Illinois before because I needed it milled,and I found someone with a magnetic table to hold it.
Dude... man that sucks... I had 5 made for the 8.875 Pontiac rear ends cause i have so many 2 series carriers.
It was easier than I though, I just told the specifications to the machinist, bring the carrier with myself to check the spacer in case that some extra machining were needed and 1 hour and 25 bucks later the spacer was done Yesterday took some time to check again the backlash, preload, and compound pattern and make the decision of removing a shim under the pinion sleeve to increase a bit the bearing preload ( I felt like it was too loose, the torque wrench barely showed 2 pounds of torque to make the rear spin with axles and everything torqued), with the new preload it takes about 8 - 9 pounds to make everything spin which I think is a lot better About the gears pattern I'm not sure what's going on with my cellphone camera but the pattern is barely noticeable on the pictures, I hope you guys can see it, I feel like the pattern is fine, again the pinion could be a bit deeper but I don't want to destroy the oil deflector without being 100% necessary
like you said kind of hard to see from these pictures... I spin the diffs around alot ... many many times . try to load it more too.... a car weigh s 3000-4000 #... so some times just spinning used gears is not going to show much as a NEW gear set would. Also have a thing with th e pinion look at the circled area?? is this good and how far into the pattern does this go? All the yellow teeth ends look correct ... the circled green tooth tip end looks like it is not all there worn or repaired? Yes? I know my eyes are old these days... but sure looks to be odd. JIm J D