I use a single line coming right off the fuel pressure reg. and a single line going to the rear from the pressure reg. It looks to me all will be good. You will make it with a 3 inch air filter.
yep, it helps you to read better lol. I am talking about going to beginning in case you missed it. silly.
I know this is a very old thread but could you mock up a block, front cover and heads, block off the back head water passages and see how much water comes out the front head water passages headed toward intake with an electric motor turning the water pump? Second idea: How hard would it be to run the flow backwards like an LS? Pull water from the radiator into the intake and push it through the heads and out the block? You'd have to rig a thermostat at the current water inlet that would be the new outlet. Probably need some steam ports as well. I doubt our water pumps would work as well in reverse as they do forward with the vanes as they are.
In the end I did nothing and blocked off the other water ports and I put a temp gauge up front on the intake. This made it easier to look at temp when under the hood and not have to go inside. The only other thought I had was put the temp gauge at the back of the intake to read back there. I wouldn't try all this extra crap just use a good rad and 180 therm and go out and burn rubber. I bought a good 3 row radiator for the air conditioned 350 that fit my car back in the 90's I never had any trouble with cooling stayed at 180 on the button. Here is what you need to watch for those little rubber plugs on the carb do not last more than 2 years now, the ones on the carb are junk now and I had a hose off the intake with a with the Prestone adapter on there to flush the system and that rubber cap I had on end was cracking too I had to eliminate all this crap Those rubber parts are junk now be aware.
WOW it’s been 6 years since I hooked up my heater core to the rear port on the intake, guess it’s ok to do so, LOLOL, I had forgotten about this thread
