Specialty Tools For Rebuilding Front Suspension - What Do You Like?

I have the engine out of my 1972 Riviera. I want to to rebuild the front suspension i.e. ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushing, etc., and I'll need to change the front springs after I determine the difference in weight between a stock 455 and one running aluminum heads. Figure I'll do the rear springs and shocks as well.

I've always had suspension work done at shops in the past, but I don't see why I can't do this work myself. I have the manuals for the car, which call for a bunch of [J-xxx] tools I don't have.

I know there are some special tools [presses, separators etc.] that are either essential or nice to have for removing and replacing ball joints and other components, and there's no substitute for the right tool.

I'm wondering what tools [Maybe it's a Kit] I need for this job, and if anyone recommends a manufacturer or sales outlet for buying them -- given all the outsourced crap on the market these days.

 

Go to AutoZone, O'Reilly, etc. Borrow every pitman arm puller and tie rod end puller they have. Get a ball joint press and every adapter kit. Get a couple of pickle forks (large and small). Get a spring compressor (or two, if they have different kinds). Somewhere in that load is everything you need. Far better to have extra tools than you find you need the one you left behind.

And when you're done, take them all back.

 

I used the OTC front end kit and was very happy with it.

 

I want to second this method as I got done rebuilding the front end on my Skaylark a month ago. O rielly had some of the best tools to borrow for the spring compression, ball joint installer/remover and tie rod end remover. Also like was mentioned rent each one and return them and get all your money back. I will want to add I wouldn't rent all the tools at once as you may run into issues that need to be addressed before moving on to the next steps. Take you time, do it right be sure to fix problems along the way and you wont have to take all that crap back apart again!

 

Get a 2 lb brass hammer to do all your bangin, a nice solid pry bar, ball jount kit, looks like a giant C clamp with all the adapters. A piece of angle iron that fits between your a arm and bushing, You will notice the a arm squeezes together when you press out and in the bushings, the angle iron is to stop the squish. Jack stands on the frame and let the suspension hang.

 

Ha Ha with the engine out puting back your springs will be interesting,

 

I used a ball joint kit, pickle fork and a 3lb hammer from harbor freight. I also used a propane torch and rented a spring compressor from Oreilly's DO NOT BUY ONE FROM HARBOR FREIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the dang thing broke on me.

Unless you have a standing style shop press you will not be able to press the upper control arm bushings in. I happen to be replacing the upper control arm bushings right now LOL and I had forgotten that I needed a machine shop to accomplish this.

***Word of warning*** if you bought suspension parts from Kanter. They have a "limited lifetime" warranty but will not honor it unless you have kept the original sales order despite the fact they are able to look up in their database exactly what was purchased. ....don't get me started.

 

Jason, what tool would that be?

 

Don't use pickle forks guys, they are one of the more pointless tools there are, I can count on one hand how many times I've needed a spring compressor too, quick rundown

1. Place stands under frame under Cowl
2. Remove the shocks then the pins , put Jack under the lower control arm ball joint area with about an inch of space, remove nut and get tie rod out of the way no need to use a fork just strike the steering arm a couple times and it will fall, if not knock the hell out of it you aren't going to hurt it I promise .
Then turn Spindle to gain access to the spindle pad under the nut remove nut, it can't go anywhere and no the spring isn't going to fly out and kill everyone, if your the paranoid type put a chain thru the spring and hang it out the back of the control arm, then knock the crap out of the area of the spindle and it will pop make noise and all that fun stuff. If it's drum brakes do yourself a favor and REMOVE the brake assembly ie the backing plates if not it will get caught and you will have a PITA, same with but not so much with the disc setup, you can also load the suspension IE Jack up the lower arm, strike the area under the upper ball joint and then just lower the arm.

Make sure spring goes behind the tab up in the frame, getting the spring to stay situated while start jacking up on the arm can sometimes be a pita but totally 100% doable , the spring needs to sit correctly in the arm as well so clock before putting psi on it

When installing springs without an engine it's no big deal do it all the time and done it twice the past two weeks, you need a 5ft chain you wrap it over the frame and under the jack then Jack goes under control in the spring bucket area if you are setting brakes on as an assembly, if you just going to put the spindle on then build the brakes you can put the jack out under the ball joint , make sure the grease fitting isn't in and use leverage to your advantage, you can also put a couple 2x6's across the frame rails and weight them with two three big girls or anything else that equals 500lb or so