Really the scoop is all you would need to do it yourself, right? It's just a normal hood with a whole and the scoop riveted or bolted on, right? EDIT: Just looked on their website and the scoop is all they sell, so I guess I was stating the obvious! But how difficult did you find mounting the scoop and cutting the hole?
I used a stock Skylark hood and located the Stage II scoop on the hood tracing its perimeter. Then measured in the distance of mounting flange for the hole size. I wanted the opening to match the scoop size1) for the most air flow, 2) to reduce the hood weight as much as possible, 3) to build a rectangular ram air plenum box in the future. Some only cut a round hole an 1" or so bigger than their air cleaner and center the scoop mounting over it. To cut the opening I used a die grinder with a cutoff wheel. Others have used a sabre saw. For the big black stripe we measured in from the side the same distance as a GSX hood. See pics opening size pic below.
It never even occurred to me to make a rectangular hole instead of the fitted round one- it sure does make sense! I gotta say, in your opinion, your car is the best looking GS I've seen. I love the color combo and I love the single stripe, instead of the normal split. Great stuff, Tom! :TU: Oh and one more question- I can't seem to find that air cleaner anywhere... Who makes it and how tall is it? Thanks.
Thanks for the compliment on the car. The air cleaner base can be any a 360 deg. open element type that fits your carb. For my engine a 1" drop base with a 4" x 14" K&N element and filter top worked. Summit sells them and also has them n 5" & 6" heights. I tried to get the air cleaner about half way up into the direct air stream so there would be also benefit of air flow through the lid. By cuting the rectangular opening there is a noticeable difference in weight between the stage II hood and a stock GS hood. That center part of the hood brace and stock 70 GS cast grilles are heavier than you would think. Tom
A video of some dry hops & exhaust noise on the driveway http://s726.photobucket.com/albums/ww266/stage1_2009/?action=view¤t=P1000178.mp4 Tom
I made it down to the 2010 BG GS Nationals after all. Drove the car everywhere and even had the chance to get over to Quick Fuel for converting the 1050 QFT to a 3 circuit carb. As it turned out, Zack offered to check the existing build out on their BBC mule motor for a baseline and after some fine tuning adjustments recommended against the conversion for any additional benefits. (at least for the way this particular carb responded) Friday was a beautiful day so I entered the car in the car show. A couple of Pics below. More to follow.
I ran it in total driven there, full street condition with no tuning, no roll bar and the old Pae switch Pitch convertor at 11.46 - 119- 1.67 60's, but it does have 10's in it with a different convertor, H R bar, lash/carb/ignition tuning and better driver than me. Tom
The 30th GSCA nationals were great and I had the time of my life, but now back to the reality of life and face pulling the 5 year old motor. This past weekend I found Ultra fine copper particles in the oil filter and the pressure is now staying about 10 Psi lower across the board. (still in acceptable limits) I must have hurt it on the first run as hot idle dropped to 16psi. Despite this the car kept running mid elevens consitently at almost 120 with sooty old plugs and the mismatched PAE switch pitch convertor. Hopefully no block damage. Later Tom
Just pulled the motor out and number 3 and number 4 main bearings were solid copper. The others were normal. Tom
This is what what the bottom end of the motor looked like when it ran a string of mid elevens. Number 4 main was pure copper and deformed into an oval but had not spun. Number 3 bearing also was worn badly. All the rod bearings looked ok, the cam and lifters were ok, pistons /rings ok, as was the rest of the valvetrain and heads. I'm surprised it had 16 psi oil press and 55-60 under throttle. There was some serious movement and/or misalignment down there that probably cost 45 to 50 hp. The oil balance line saved the rest of the engine by supplying enough volume so the rods wouldn't starve and the cam area was still lubed. Notice the normal colour rod bearing that was fed from main # 4 (worn down to copper) The day after tommorrow the block goes in for crack checking. So far nothing visible. If it's ok I may reuse it as in option #1 below. Otherwise option#2 or 3 Option 1) Do another line hone with ARP main bolts (No studs this time) half block fill, and redone crank Option 2) I'll use my old 73 462 block that I know has a good line hone (watched them do it), hog out the bores from .030 over to .038, cut the decks to .010 also with 1/2 fill and ARP Bolts. Option 3) redo a complete spare blue block and mild stroke it with some kind of girdle. What do you think? Tom
Some other 30th BG pics Views: Beech Bend Raceway gates while registering Friday Car show 2 more pics Finshed at tech Drive through the pits Burnout of 4th pass Tom
Thanks for the compliment. The wheel tire combo: 15 x 8 rear Weld wheels with 275 x 60 x 15 Mickey Thompson ET Street radials 15x 6 front Weld wheels with 205 x 75 x 15 steel belt dept store radials Tom
Update on the motor: The crank was in to the crank grinder and and was found to have a 1.5 thou warp in the center. This could have been part of the main bearing wear. All bearing surfaces cleaned up with a polish but #4 still looked like it had chemical damage, so all the mains will be ground to .30 under @ low limits. Rods journals stay at .10 under. No word on the block checking & line hone yet but I decided to stay with main studs. Ordered a new set of ARPs to replace the neck down version that were previously used. So far it's looking like the old block will be reused. Most peripheral parts have been ordered, like new Gaskets, a new set of double groove cam bearings from Mike at T/A. Tom
