Don't like what the HP calculator says it's making for power....assuming 20% driveline loss....264 at the wheels, 286 at the flywheel.
Like Larry said, some better tires. Some rear suspension upgrades would help too. A set of Lakewood lift bars upper adjustable rear control arms and make sure you get the control arm braces(not necessarily the ones in the link; https://www.ebay.com/itm/MSS-Contro...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Also when you're at the track if you disconnect the front sway bar links, that will help weight transfer to the rear of the car that will help traction as well. Question for you, why is the rev limiter set so low? Unlike the factory rods that won't handle much RPM over 6,000, the rods you have were made to handle 10,000 + RPM. Does the cam run out of power after 6,000 RPM or do your heads run out of air? Sup?
At only 102 mph you are a LONG way from needing traction devices, all you need is some 27in tall Drag radials and MAYBE some single adjustable shocks just for consistency. The stock stuff works really well if the track is decent. Jmo
Yeah, you're probably right about that. But on the other hand if the heads have enough flow, that short shifting under 6,000 may be slowing him way down? IIRC the roller cam he is running has over 235* of dur. @ .050" and over .680" lift that should keep making power well over 6,000. Being a hyd. roller with the TA lifters he would probably only have another 500 RPM anyway. Either a set of the very expensive race low travel hyd. lifters or a set of solid roller lifters would get even more RPM out of that little sbb 373. IIRC they are also running the SP3 intake so, on a small block with a single plane intake those like to keep making power to 7,500 RPM!(that's if in the heads can keep up)
I asked Haydn to turn up the limiter, but he didn't want to. There was no wheel hop that I could see...just a lot of wheel spin. Yes, SP3 intake. 750 dp 9 1/2" JW converter. When I tried to talk him through loading up against the converter, hi was with him when he tried it. Only brought the rpm up to about 1500, and then removed left foot from brake, and planted right foot to floor...you'd swear the car was in neutral it revved so fast...instant tire smoke/loss of traction....epic fail. We were driving down the street, doing 30mph in 2nd gear, Haydn drops the hammer, and the damn car goes sideways...the torque is nuts!
That's crazy awesome Ivan! I'm working with someone with a high lift hyd. roller cam that is swapping to solid roller lifters AND an SP3 to see what kind of RPM it likes, we are close and will let you know how it works out. I can't remember what your cam specs are can you refresh everyone's memories? I do remember that they got it wrong at the first try, was .356" instead of .365" lobe lift, but you were able to switch to the 1.65:1 rockers to correct it. What is the rest of the cam specs?
Just asked Haydn if he shifted the transmission by hand, or if he left it in Drive.......he left it in drive. (Face-in-palm)
Hey Ivan, if you're considering replacing the rear suspension with aftermarket factory style stuff anyway these are priced lower than some of the aftermarket lower control arms out there; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Southside-...845012?hash=item43feee6494:g:UzMAAOSw4CFYtAy8 SSM(South Side Machine) went out of business when the owner of this company retired but it looks like someone started it back up! These are the bars I have on one of my '64 Skylarks and they work great at the track now and when I had the bigger engine in it! Just wish I got the adjustable upper control arms for it, would of made it easier to adjust the pinion angle. Get the rear sway bar with those as well and upgrade the front one, the car will turn WAY better setup that way. Disconnect the front sway bar links in the front when you're at the track for better weight transfer. If you're just going to rebuild the factory stuff which is ok, at least get a set of the rear control arm braces(not necessarily the ones above). The factory added those for the big block cars IIRC in '67? With the extra new found torque you don't want to break your frame if you get it all to hook up with some sticky tires. The factory style braces are made out of stamped steel which would also be fine to use. When is the next track outing?
1st run: 328.57hp @ 5.46 rpm, 327.78 tq @ 4.63 rpm. A/F= 11.3 at wot above 5500 rpm. 2nd run: 328.61hp @ 5.48 rpm, 326.49 tq @ 4.49 rpm. 3rd run, air cleaner removed: 332.00 @ 5.45 rpm, 336.53 tq @ 4.67 rpm. A/F= 10.9 It's 86*F/30*C outside. 2263 feet/690 meters altitude. Dyno operator said he could drop 4 jet sizes on the primaries pretty easily.
With tuning he has some more HP to gain. Did you guys get an air/fuel gauge for tuning? The dyno guy is right, that 11.3 is a bit rich, should be 12.0 to 12.5 @ WOT. If there is a 20% loss through the drivetrain, you're looking at over 400 HP and over 400 ft lbs the way its running now. That's weird how the HP numbers are so close to the torque numbers? Is that the RPM the HP maxed out? And is that 5.45 actually 5,450? If so, the heads are really choking the engine or the cam is to small?(as in duration @ .050") More cubes makes a cam act like it is smaller so? Altogether not to shabby, with another 5 to 20 that can be gained with some tuning. And another 50 to 100 with some better heads!
When we had mine on the chassis dyno it liked 11.5 air fuel. When we went to 12.5 it lost about 12 hp.
Yes, we have an A/F gauge. Yes, rpm is 5450, etc, etc. I guess it was so rich, the engine was just blubbering all over itself, and couldn't clean up.
