I was pulling out of a parking space and the pump was whining and howling(is that a problem in and of itself? Should I replace the pump?), but when I drove straight again there was a dead spot in the column where the wheel will turn to the right(turning the tires) then slip about 30 degrees, then continue turning the tires. The slip has very little resistance and I'm wondering where the weak link is. Has anyone experienced this before?
Let the care sit for a day or so. Then: (Easier if front tires are off the ground) Remove the reservoir cap and check the level. If it is low, add to full level. Then turn the steering wheel fill stop to stop about 5 times each way. Re-check fluid, and top off if needed. Repeat this 4 times. If you still have problems, or if the fluid is/stays full, you may have an internal leak (within the pump) and a replace/rebuild is in order. I rebuilt pumps back in the "old days", and found it was easier, less hassle and less overall cost to simply replace the pump, but with the cheap crap today, finding someone who can rebuild them is the better solution. FWIW, I had a fast ratio box and broke it by pulling the steering wheel to hard against the A-arm stop while I was trying to get clearance to install the fender well dust flaps without removing the front wheel/tires. Heard a "pop" and then about a 30 degree "free play" where I had none before. Checked to make sure I did not pop a steering link ball joint, or break the rag joint. Broke something in the gear box. Hector (Carhex) sent me one and I had it in a few days and all is well. So, if you need to swap the steering gear box, Hector is your man.
Thank you for this awesome reply. Do you recommend I have the car running while doing the process you've written up or leave it off? I just installed a new reman steering box, so I will be livid if I find that it is already broken.
Also I should add that it doesn't always slip 30 degrees. If I turn the wheel slowly it does not always slip
No. Never run the car when bleeding a PS pump/reservoir. You will turn the fluid into foam and it takes a long time for the air to surface without a vacuum system to help "boil" off the air. Take you time and get it done right, rather than having to do it over and over. (having bled aircraft hydraulic systems, "trapped air/aerated fluid" is a real problem if you don't get it all out.) If you put in a new box, likely it is air. Lift the front tires off the ground and turn the wheel lock to lock and the air will be forced out of the box. I grab a tire and push/pull it back and forth. It takes a little muscle, but it is easier than turning the steering wheel, and it helps wet those guns pumped up, so you can put that arm up on the door sill when your cruising...
Trunkmonkey the slip is still there, a literal dead zone between when the box engages. On the very fine line of livid and putting a divot in the road outside my house with a Lares box wedged in it. Fluid shows to be fine, no more bubbles. It literally took a sh*t on me in 50 miles of driving. I'm going to keep driving on it as is, because otherwise the car is great. However it will get done this winter, since I'm away from the Buick nearly all summer.
That's no joy. Here is Hector's profile info. He is great to deal with. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?members/carhex1.19133 Make sure you check the pressure and return line fittings for the correct thread size and if they are o-ring or inverted flare so you have the correct fittings/adapters and or hoses before you do the swap. And measure the input shaft to be sure you have the correct spline count and size of the gearbox side of the rag joint. You will have a big puddle of fluid when you disconnect the hoses, so be aware of that and have lots of rags packed around the box.
I suppose I now have two good cores for the man. I'm going to call Lares, rip them a new one, see if they'll send me another to calm me down, and maybe send the original back. Stay tuned folks
Hector deals with the A-Body stuff not the "808" model big car stuff. I've made contact with an outfit that does steering boxes for The BIG cars that will supply 2.5, 2.75 & 3.0 turns lock to lock. If this works out the cost will be about $285.00 give or take & the core DOES NOT have to be a fast ratio as ALL 808 boxes are the same. As long as the box is not all pitted/rusted & is a good candidate for a rebuild. This of course is plus shipping. I've mailed the steering box in a large flat rate box which is about $20.00. You will have to add support to the inside of the box to take care of the weight & bulk & using the H/Duty wrapping tape with the thread in the middle for strength wrapped all the way around so hopefully the steering box doesn't break through the box. I will know in the next couple weeks if they would be able to supply the demand that we may get. IT WILL BE A BOLT ON FOR THE ORIGINAL BOX. Tom T.
I can do all boxes. I do have an 808 core and they run the same 240 with out core cost or 120 to rebuild if you send it in.
