Cranks but won’t fire much out the pipes, 1 of the cylinders is firing out the carb. It ran well this spring, but leaked water. I had to replace the water pump, so I took the distributor out of my way...forgetting to scratch it for alignment. Points replaced, not dialed in thanks to my dumb butt pulling the Dist and tossing it aside, my next step includes new plugs, but like I said it ran ok a few months ago. I’ve tried to work the distributor all the way around, but can’t push it all the way into the block any other but one position, there’s an alignment tab. What are my other factors? Also I haven’t been here in a while, I like how the place looks!
Step by step: - Remove the front drivers side spark plug - Stick a wine cork in the plug hole - use a long ratchet and socket to turn the engine over till the cork pops out - Line up TDC on the timing tab - Remove the distributor - Re-install the distributor so that the rotor is under the number 1 plug wire - Put the spark plug back in - Fire it up - Adjust the distributor to set the timing - If it doesnt fire up then turn the dist till it does.
No, I let it sit for a couple of weeks was all Should I be able to turn the distibutor 180 degrees around? I thought I tried that, wouldn’t shove in all the way. Also THANKS! For the advice
No, you cannot, there isn't enough clearance. Follow Sean's post #2. You have to pull the distributor out and reposition the rotor, but FIRST, follow post #2.
Can’t flip the rotor by 180*, there’s a square peg/round peg situation there...can’t find another position for the distributor shaft, it’s got a key tab. Ran out of starting fluid today while checking the electrical parts, I’ve verified spark but need more time to work on timing again. Can’t remember what the timing used to be, do I want near 4* btdc, more or less?
We understand all of that. The distributor has to come out completely. Then follow post #2. Spark won't get the engine to run if the ignition timing is out a lot. Your initial timing requirements will depend on what distributor part number is currently installed in your engine. It might not be original. The car is 50 years old. http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/power-timing-your-buick-v8.63475/
Many thanks, gentlemen! I tried so many versions of *wrong* that I’m not exactly sure what I missed the first time around. Long story short, I spun the distributor around 180*from where it sat yesterday and the engine is acting like an engine again. Next step for me is to check the brakes out so I can move it, insulate the garage a little better, and settle it back in for some winter work
