I've has this 1967 225 V6 odd fire since 73. Time to upgrade to a hoped for 350 with a suitable 3 speed transmission, without the noids..re step down-passing gear or switch the pitch. Our initial search seems to show a serious lack of Buick 350 engines, not to mention those having been re-manufactured and sold with out (oil pans) seriously ?? The second consideration is finding a suitable 3 speed Trans, that will just put power to the wheels without solenoids, which will bolt in with out transmission cross member or frame mods. If any one can point us to vendors, that would be great. Believe me we've checked over two dozen. I don't like what I am finding thus far, and I'm not inclined to drop in a Chevy 350, an a trans but if it comes to that, well it's a GM. It's better than letting it gather dust sitting in my garage.. Thanks to any and all re suggestions and pointing us to reputable vendors etc...
A 350 trans buick,olds,Pontiac all have the same bell housing, most common are short shaft. Craigslist, racingjunk, ebay, parts for sale section here, team buick parts for sale section, If your on Facebook join this. https://m.facebook.com/groups/1509115445975132/?ref=group_browse And https://m.facebook.com/groups/396928777320487/?ref=group_browse What’s your location and expected goals/ budget like.
Where are you located? I’ve been shipping engines around the continent for years. It’s pretty easy to find a good running buick 350 and th350 combo ready to just change some gaskets and run. I would not buy a Reman engine. I ship through a company called “u ship”.
Place an ad for a running Buick 350 engine and 350 transmission in the "Parts Wanted" section. They are very available on this Board. Since the change out labor will be basically the same, for even more performance, you may want to jump to a Buick 455. 455s are also available.
For a basic engine with low longevity , no performance expectations. And you have the parts that do not come with a long block(oil pan, valve covers, balancer,flexplate,manifolds). And no expectations on decent oil pressure then go with it. And slim chance they stand behind the warranty when it’s low oil pressure eats engine and they claim its your lack of maintenance.
If you don't mind buying a engine with less than 8:1 compression that will run like a turd then do the reman. Do any performance upgrades on it though and there goes your warranty! Those engines have the cheapest of the cheap parts made for it in them. For example they will more than likely have the 8:1 advertised pistons in them that will make the engine under 8:1 because more than likely the deck milling will be skipped or be minimal. To get the advertised 8:1 with those crappy cheap replacement destroked pistons the deck would have to be milled at least .050" to get the deck .020" below the blueprint spec. because that spec is usually at least .030" taller than what it is suppose to be! Those reman engines will usually run worse than the tired original engines that they replace. If you don't care if the car is a slug then the reman engine is for you.(will probably be slower than the v6 that you want to remove from the car)
Thank You, I've worked and raced these V6s from 68 to 1970 NHRA.. Back Then Kenne Bell was the only innovator..
