Discussion in 'Tomahawk Block Buildups' started by slimfromnz, Feb 26, 2013.
Fantastic progress, love the numbers.
How much oil is above the top side of the pick up? It looks like the crank is whipping the oil off into the open area of the pan causing it to aerate the oil. Can you fit some directional mesh in there? Is there enough room in the front? Or maybe a larger piece of metal/aluminum with louvers and a small hole to stick the block end of the pick up tube through first so you can bolt the PU to the block then use some duz fasteners to hold the shield to the pan. Maybe lift the shield up a bit so it is as close to flush with front of the pan as you can get it.
I have taken measurements before I put the pan on so I will check when I get home
Ok, I think I'm on top of it now
Found I had too much oil and that my pickup needs to be lowered by 1"
Also put some more drain holes in my baffle
Hopefully once I drop my pickup deeper into the pan it will be ok
I think you still need to mesh the sump area, when the oil flings off the crank it hits that opening. Pm me your e-mail addy and I will send you some thing that might help you. Chris
Ok, I decided to take a different tack with the oil pan. I was going to get Steve Reynolds to make an alloy pan for me, which he was happy to do, but not till the new year.
I want to get the motor back on the dyno, so my research started with help from buickstage1.
I had some 16g folded up to my dimensions, bought another pan gasket and 5/8" pickup tube from TA.
Here is the start of the new oil pan with cut outs for the front
Plenty of room
One side is bigger than the other to allow for the starter. Here are the fillet plates tacked in
I also bought a Canton Race Products windage screen kit, which was pretty easy to install
I made this baffle to put in the middle from left to right
Then I put these bevels on the holes to promote oil flow in one direction, to the back
Then I made an enclosure for the pickup I made. The idea was to trap oil in the back where the pickup is.
Then I beveled the top of each opening to promote oil in
Here it is mocked up. You can see where the pickup is located. It actually sits on the floor with a 3/8" high foot holding the screen off the floor. I made the pickup out of some 2"x 2" box and cut a 3/8" bottom piece out of it but leaving the end to create a foot. I then drilled 95 holes (count them if you like ) in a plate to act as a screen.
Steve Reynolds look away now!!
Here is what is left of my old oil pan
I had to make these as straight as I could so it would be easier to weld together
Sorting out the front
Here it is tacked together.
This project gave me the excuse to by a TIG and give it a go. Here was one of my last welds.
Found that the 2 surfaces have to be so clean. Had to dig out a few contamination bubbles
Royden, you really do nice work! Is there any way you could put in a trap door instead of the baffle with the holes in it? You buy the piano hinge at the hardware store https://www.google.ca/search?q=pian...AXo9IH4Cg&ved=0CFsQsAQ&biw=1024&bih=600&dpr=1
I will have a look.
Looks like you're doing a great job! I don't need to look away..... I've seen worse surgeries!
Looks great. I consider projects like this as "therapy". Soon you'll be back up and running.
I was a little worried about tackling this as I was sure how to do it. I thought I would start with the pickup and build an oil pan around it
---------- Post added at 05:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:56 AM ----------
Exactly Gary. I cant wait to see it back on the dyno. Trying to do this in the middle of moving house. The wife can get a bit :af: sometimes, but she is onboard :TU:
I feel a bit stupid.......................... because I had a small vacuum leak under the carbies, so I took them off and was just looking down the runners of the tunnel ram and I noticed the tunnel ram ports aren't matched to the heads ou:ou:
Generally they need about 1/8" removed to match the heads. I have had these heads and tunnel ram for about 5 yrs now and never noticed it. I wasn't going to tell anyone (for fear of sounding stupid) but I guess its all about patience and doing it right the first time. Might even give me a bit more on the dyno?
Is that pick up a do it your self weld up?
Is that something I can get from TA?
I have made up my mind to keep mine internal pick up instead of getting the external type.
It something I made basing it off a Milodon style pickup. The tube itself is TA.
Well I took my oil pan to my dyno guy to get his opinion, and he said he would like to see a trap door, do away with the baffle plate I made and direct the oil via a race to the box I made for the pickup. He also said to put side trap doors on to assist with cornering. He also said I need to include a scrapper, which is a little more difficult with the pickup tube in the way. These TA455 blocks run the pickup tube all the way to the front of the block, not half way like the factory castings, which does create a problem for my scrapper.
When looking at the front of the engine it rotates clockwise???????
Anyone confirm for me.
Dont want to install the mesh and scrapper the wrong way. I am pretty sure the crank spins colckwise
Great job on the pan! Get the trap doors in there and it will be an awesome set up. Yes clockwise is correct.
Yep nearly finished it with 3 trap doors. I thought while I was at it I would put 2 sides ones in also that swing in. I have a ton of pics to post but have to get ready for the Monster Jam monster trucks here in Sydney all from the US. We have some pretty lame ones doing the circuit here in AUS, but am really looking forward to seeing some real hang time. I dont know who is more excited, me or my 9yr old son :laugh:
Nearly finished it. I removed the baffle plate and box I made around the pickup and started again.
Here is the race and forward trap door
Here it is mocked in position looking from the back
I also lifted the front of the floor to assist with oil runoff to the back
Looking from the front
Here you can see the side trap doors
Put this plate over the top to stop it running out the back under acceleration
Next I needed to make a piece to fill the front. This took me a while because I wanted it to fit nice and snug so I wasn't welding big gaps with the TIG
Looking from the back showing the front plate welded in
Here is the back plate
Cut to fit
Here is my tiny workshop. All my tools are in view. Wish I had a guillotine and pan break
I will finish the rear plate tomorrow morning, then take it in to get sandblasted to remove all internal welding scale, then I will check for leaks with some solvent, weld the trap door, race etc in position then powdercoat the exterior ready to go back on.
Lovely fab work, Royden.
Thanks Devon. For me it was a bit of a monumental task
Performed a leak test and had a few minor leaks to fix.
Getting it ready for powdercoat.