TA Performance 290-94H cam

Like I said, if the engine runs and idles well, you don't have to do anything to fix it if it isn't broken. In general, a cam likes more initial timing so that it idles better in gear. The bigger the cam, the more this is so. The other variable is WOT timing. The best way to determine that is at the track. If bumping the timing produces an increase in trap speed, the engine wants more timing. If bumping the timing results in no gain, or a decrease in trap speed, it doesn't. If more initial timing gives you a better, more stable idle, that is a reason to do it. It isn't desirable to have mechanical advance in at idle speeds. That can sometimes produce a stall when dropping it into Drive from Park. The natural drop in RPM when shifting into Drive takes away some mechanical timing dropping RPM further. My engine likes constant timing, so I run the distributor locked out and set the timing at 34*. The only downside is the engine is hard to crank when hot. My MSD box has a selectable 20* crank retard, so it cranks at 14*, but runs at 34*. The engine idles the best like that.

Figure out how much total WOT timing the engine wants. Leave the vacuum advance disconnected and bump the timing up 2* at a time. Make some full throttle runs from various speeds and listen for any audible ping. Retard the timing as needed to avoid any pinging. Then connect your vacuum advance and listen for any part throttle ping. From a constant 40-60 MPH, accelerate briskly and listen for audible ping. Reduce the amount of vacuum advance to eliminate the ping.

 

If you increased your initial timing to 14 from 11, you also increased your total timing to 35*.