TA Valve covers

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by tt455, Apr 16, 2019.

  1. tt455

    tt455 T Bone

    After missing out on a couple of sets of TA valve covers in parts for sale, and no luck on ebay , I ordered a set from TA Performance. I called and talked to Tim who was a great help, and asked if I could still get these with the BUICK name on them since they don't show it on the web page. He said sure they just can't legally advertise it on the web page, had I known I would have ordered them sooner. I just love these covers even over the Kenne Bell covers I have. So I just put it out there in case you didn't know.
    Btw, do I need to use RTV silicone with the cork gaskets?

    tavc.jpg
     
    alaskagn, 1972Mach1, Julian and 5 others like this.
  2. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    Dang. I did not know that. Figured it was a licensing issue and no longer available.

    Found a set (in the white, elsewhere) bought them, did all the painting, then filed and polished the letters and ribs by hand.

    Coulda given the coin to Mike and Co. and had them already coated and machined. LOL

    Live and learn (work harder)... [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1972Mach1 and rmstg2 like this.
  3. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    sweet what did they cost you, I like the TA look over the kb I have too, thinking about ordering a new set and selling my kb off
     
  4. Philip66

    Philip66 Well-Known Member

    Tom I usually just use a little bit of Right Stuff and glue the cork gasket to the valve cover. Then bolt it to the head. I never put any silicone-RTV-Right Stuff, etc on the head...only on the valve cover. And don't Over tighten it, harder to do with cast than stock steel but still possible.
     
  5. tt455

    tt455 T Bone

     
  6. '72 Skylark Custom 4bbl

    '72 Skylark Custom 4bbl Well-Known Member

    Mike,

    I just got my red TA valve covers today & I’d like to do the rib accent as well.

    What technique did you use? Did you just use a regular file & how did you polish the ribs?

    Thanks,

    Kyle
     
    TrunkMonkey likes this.
  7. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    (I should have drilled and worked the "breather and cap" holes before painting, and had to be extra careful, but no damage.)

    I used a flat file very fine to get them near flat and smooth, then followed up with a small block and 1500 moving up to 3000 grit.

    The 3000 will nearly make it appear like chrome. You just need to get the smoothest finish you can with one grit before you go to the next finer grit or you will end up with fine lines.
    After the snadpaper, I moved to Turtle Wax white swirl/scratch remover and a cloth (T-shirt) wrapped around a couple of fingers. Keep the cloth wet with polish.

    Painting.

    First I washed them with Prep-All to degrease. (due to all the above handling and work)
    Then etched them with Ospho. Wet them completely, kept them wet/covered and in the shade.
    After, I rinsed with clear water and used heat gun to quick/fully dry them.
    Used Prep-All again to ensure no oil/grease.

    Painted them without primer using the Duplicoler DE1653 ceramic engine paint.
    I painted them using a very light coat, that made them look as if they were covered by over-spray.
    Let set 20 minutes, then did that again. Set 10 minutes, and then x2 more with 10 minute interval between coats.
    Then I used light to medium coat x3 with 10 minutes, and finally a heavy wet coat.

    Let them dry for about a week.

    Then used acetone and the "T-shirt" method to carefully remove the paint from the polished areas.

    I like pretty engines. Especially if they have a whole lotta "GO!" under the "SHOW". [​IMG]


    I did the same thing with my nail-head on the aluminum parts.
    [​IMG]

    upload_2020-1-21_22-22-6.png
     
    12lives, sriley531 and Kingfish like this.
  8. Electra Bob

    Electra Bob Well-Known Member

    And just to round out the color options here is a before and after on the Electra.

    They go a long way towards smartening up the engine bay with out a lot of effort.

    before_and_after.jpg
     
    TrunkMonkey likes this.
  9. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member


    I like the wire seperator/holder.......didnt know anyone made one to fit the spacing of our bbb
     
  10. 455 Powered

    455 Powered Well-Known Member

    My dad used to put a thin coat of Vaseline on the ribs after he had them polished. He would paint everything and wipe off the ribs. Then a quick wipe down with a degreaser
     
  11. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    TA sells them. They are made by R&M Specialties.
    http://www.rmspecialties.com

    You can get them in various colors for both the separators and the anodized looms and small plastic spacers.

    I used a long bolt and two nuts (as locknut) so I could chuck the spacers in a drill and then spin them on a flat file to taper them to fit the bolt holes in the valve covers, as they were a little to large diameter to fit. (sneak up on them with the file)

    You'll need 2" bolts, if you use the spacers under the looms. I did because of the header heat, but they might be fine for manifolds without the spacers.

    If you have or want the allen cap screws, I picked up the longer screws at Lowes.
    Hillman 1/4-in-20 x 2-in Allen-Drive Cap Screws.
    Item # 135982 Model # 880314

    They also have the shorter if you need them.
    Hillman 1/4-in-20 x 3/4-in Allen-Drive Cap Screws
    Item # 135972 Model # 880311
     

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