Yup, that's the one I got. Not perfect, but for the price it's worth it. I see you added bolts to the sliders. Not a bad idea.
You mean the trans pan adjustment sliders? Mine came with those bolts. The only problem I had was with the tilt controls, they bind up with the transmission weight on the jack.
LOL, mine came with no bolts and 4 washers. So I thought it only needed 4 bolts for the sliders. Good old HF.
So finally got it all buttoned up today. And would you believe it, it actually works after I rebuilt it! No leaks either! Now just have to wait for it to stop raining so I can test drive it.
Nice work! Feels good accomplishing it yourself doesn't it, I know I felt great doing it myself when I did mine. My next project is I'm doing my own 455 rebuild.
Agree completely. Thats why I was sharing. Had to tell someone about it. I took it for a long drive today. I didn't think the trans shifted hard before, but man now it's so smooth. Like butter. But I can also tell the shifts are firmer. Cant wait for the trans and rear to get broken in so I can see how they really perform. I could attempt a stock engine rebuild, but I dont want a stock engine. So I'm getting one built.
There's not much to break in, it either works or it doesn't. Well atleast that's what I was told when I rebuilt mine and mentioned the "break in" term in my thread lol. My new engine wont be stock either. There's enough info and guidance on this board that I'm pretty confident in doing a balls out build. The hardest part will be finding a good machine shop that I can trust to get everything into spec so I wont have issues later on.
I wish you well with that. Personally I dont have the confidence to do a balls out build as my first engine build. There is so much more to it than a stock rebuild. The break in is mostly for the rear I rebuilt. Honestly I'm more stressed out about that than i am the trans.
Thank you I appreciate it! See, I'm more timid on rebuilding a rear than an engine. Kudos to you for taking on that challenge I'm hoping I wont have to deal with that
Congrats on the successful trans rebuild Walter.. that is quite the accomplishment. Ya, rear end rebuilds are always dicey till they get fully broken in.. listening for the dreaded whine... We will be on the motor of yours here before you know it.. I assume the knocking stopped? If not, be careful, I had another customer years ago, with a car just like yours (Stage 1 optioned Centurion Convert) throw a rod right thru the side of his numbers matching block.. JW
Still knocking but way quieter than what it was at that startup. I'd be a lot more upset about it but I already got the ball rolling on the new engine. Now I just want it to last until I get the new engine. BTW, I have an engine I pulled out of a car I parted out that will be used for this new engine. The one in my car is not original and has been rebuilt (stock rebuild) before.
gotcha... as soon as Fastenal shipping comes back on line, and I can get my stranded crates back, we will get one coming your way. I will be in touch. JW
LOL, I should shut the barn door eh? I just ordered a gauge set this morning. At the very least they will be there for the new engine.
No, but if you do have seriously low pressure, at least you could avoid operating the engine in such a manner so as to ventilate the block, just sayin.
If you watch oil pressure, get an electric type with remote sender. Then you will not have tubes that can break and dump all your oil. I use the latest solid state types with very compact sender, also for fuel pressure on EFI. See Evil bay 262058537052, 251547311605 for this style, a bit more wiring. good luck, Bruce Roe
Thanks for the tip Bruce, but I already ordered a set. I did get the copper tube upgrade so at least it's better than the nylon tube. Next time though, I like the idea. And the gauges will be going in as soon as they get here. That has moved right up to the top of my to do list.
